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It appears my dishwasher has the chronic Kenmore/Whirlpool problem with the heater circuit. Midway through the cycle, the dishwasher stops and the clean LED blinks 7 times and then repeats. This doesn't happen on every run. And sometimes I can reset the dishwasher by entering the diagnostics cycle and then get it to run completely through a regular cycle.
My model number is 665.16012401 but I have not been able to get any useful information from this site by entering the model number. I have looked at every post I can find in this forum describing this problem. I have measured my water temperature and it is 120 degrees.
Based on my symptoms, is it possible to narrow the problem down to one or a couple of pieces of the water heating/sensing circuits? Unfortunately, I don't even know where some of these pieces are or how to test them. Can I do the tests at the main controller board? Do I have to remove the inner front door panel to access this controller? Do I have to test the heater, itself, from underneath the dishwasher?
Sorry for the many simplistic questions. Any suggestions much appreciated.
Bill Greene
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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Please check your Model Number Tried this site and another and no info comes up |
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Rank: Member
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Yes, I had the same problem when I tried to search for my model number on this site. I was hoping to find a picture of the inside of my dishwasher.
I got the model number from a sticker on the left door panel. Before the number was MOD #. I have checked and double-checked the digits I copied down.
Bill
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Have been doing some looking hopefully the following will help http://www.mediafire.com/?42mhcghit1yCould be the water inlet screen is partially clogged and is not letting it fill correctly. Especially if it fails when let say someone flushes the toilet or runs a tap. On most units it should fill to just under the heating element. Also since it is intermittent the door switch is a good bet. |
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denman,
Thanks very much for the reply. The video makes the problem much clearer.
Based on my experiences and the video, I would guess that you're exactly right about the problem being the door switch. Is there any way I can determine this for sure?
I verified that the door is reasonably level across the top.
Is there by any chance a replacement door switch that is less sensitive to how the door is closed?
I'm not exactly clear on why there are two switches. What would happen if I just jumper the neutral door switch?
Thanks again.
Bill
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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Since I cannot find a wiring diagram or a parts breakdown all I can do is guess. Normally they use 2 switches so that both line and neutral are opened when you open the door but the video gives the impression that one of the switches is somehow used for a heater interlock.
If both switches are single contact re: Normally Open, I would remove power from the unit, short the wires out on both of them out, tape them so they cannot short to anything, button it up and give it a try.
This would positively confirm it, if this is the problem.
As long as you do not open the door when it is running and make sure the unit is at off when you do open the door it should be OK. |
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