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SkylinePigeon9797  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, February 9, 2011 3:48:16 PM(UTC)
SkylinePigeon9797

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Joined: 2/9/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2

Okay, so I just got this used dryer, not sure how old it is. I hooked it up and turned it on and it ran very loudly (startled me) and then cut off after 10 seconds. Couldn't turn it back on until I heard a click. So I called my Dad up to troubleshoot and he said it sounded like it was cutting off because of overheating and the click was it cooling back off or whatever. So he had me disconnect the ground wire, get a lamp and hold the plug to the wires. When I held it to the center/right the lamp would come on at normal intensity, when I held it to the center/left connections it came on brighter.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.p...dc15669&id=502661669

So, grasping at straws, he had me disconnect the power cord and flip it over and reconnect opposite to what it had been before. This time the dryer came on and stayed on and was much quieter (almost sounded a bit weak but I don't really know what this dryer is supposed to sound like) but it wasn't heating. The air blowing out the vent wasn't getting warm and sticking my hand in after it had been running was not warm either.

I switched the power cord back to how it had originally been to see if it had been heating that way. It will only run for 10 seconds and I have to wait a bit to be able to turn it back on but the air blowing out the vent didn't feel like it was getting warm, however it did feel a little warm inside the dryer. But it's just hard to tell since it won't stay on very long at all.

My Dad couldn't really help me any farther than that so here I am regaling this forum with my tale of woe. I could really use some answers! Thanks!
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, February 10, 2011 7:10:50 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for KENMORE 11064952300 | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for your wiring diagram.

You may have a house electrical problem.
Sounds like half the line is low. This will cause the motor to overheat.

You will need a meter, it is the only reliable way to tell what is going on.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug with the unit unplugged.
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out. This you have already done. Your connections look like they could use a clean up but I doubt that is your problem.
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
Make sure it can read up to 300 volts AC
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
64952300.pdf (277kb) downloaded 1 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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