Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
SpartanGA  
#1 Posted : Thursday, January 27, 2011 12:24:37 PM(UTC)
SpartanGA

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2011(UTC)
Posts: 10

Microwave has no power. e.g. no display, no response, no light inside. nothing.

House circuit breaker is fine...switched it off and on to verify. Nothing.

I went ahead and ordered the 4010 fuse listed in the parts area of this site.

Any advice if that was correct and where the fuse is inside? Back by the cord or elsewhere? Precautions in replacing?

(I have not looked at the back of the microwave yet as it is 'built-in' to our cabinetry)

thx
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Friday, January 28, 2011 8:15:14 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: SpartanGA Go to Quoted Post
Microwave has no power. e.g. no display, no response, no light inside. nothing.

House circuit breaker is fine...switched it off and on to verify. Nothing.

I went ahead and ordered the 4010 fuse listed in the parts area of this site.

Any advice if that was correct and where the fuse is inside? Back by the cord or elsewhere? Precautions in replacing?

(I have not looked at the back of the microwave yet as it is 'built-in' to our cabinetry)

thx


Spartan,

A good guess and place to start.

I'm sure you know you'll need to remove the unit from the wall cavity,
once it's out and down, you'll need to remove the outer cabinet of the MW.

DO NOT reach into the component compartment, until you find and discharge the capacitor

Part number: AP4295779
Part number: AP4295779


Touch across the two terminals with an insulated screwdriver, so you remove the high voltage build up in it.
If you don't you could get hurt, badly.

Before, you install the new fuse, I usually check the door switches and wiring and make sure the switch mount bracket is properly aligned and tight,

If you have any more questions, or need assistance,
Drop us a line, we're here to help.

:) :) :)
SpartanGA  
#3 Posted : Friday, January 28, 2011 8:29:20 AM(UTC)
SpartanGA

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2011(UTC)
Posts: 10

GREAT info on the capacitor. Thanks.

I will let everyone know the results/status in this thread.
Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Friday, January 28, 2011 10:25:52 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: SpartanGA Go to Quoted Post
GREAT info on the capacitor. Thanks.

I will let everyone know the results/status in this thread.



Great,

Please be cautious and careful,

Thanks,
:cool: :cool: :cool:
SpartanGA  
#5 Posted : Sunday, February 6, 2011 11:05:06 AM(UTC)
SpartanGA

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2011(UTC)
Posts: 10

Ok, I received the part and managed to get the microwave open (those security torx screws are fun).

I replaced the fuse, but the microwave is still dead. No lights, no display nothing. No noise etc.

How could it be completely dead? I tried different outlets as well to verify it was the microwave.

Any other simple solutions or do I go buy a new microwave?

thx
Joe / APP Team  
#6 Posted : Monday, February 7, 2011 8:54:36 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: SpartanGA Go to Quoted Post
Ok, I received the part and managed to get the microwave open (those security torx screws are fun).

I replaced the fuse, but the microwave is still dead. No lights, no display nothing. No noise etc.

How could it be completely dead? I tried different outlets as well to verify it was the microwave.

Any other simple solutions or do I go buy a new microwave?

thx



Spartan,

Did you check for 120 VAC on both sides of the fuse holder connections ?

The next test would be the oven thermal fuse.

Part number: AP2024352
Part number: AP2024352


Located on the top of the oven cavity near the stirrer motor,

That has to be a closed circuit, or 120 VAC on each side of the cut out switch to chassis ground.

Also, check for a similar component attached to the magnetron, and check for a closed circuit on it as well.

If either of these are an open circuit, you wont have a power circuit to any component in the control panel or high voltage side of the circuitry,

Replacing the unit, of course, is a decision you have to make, But , at this point, it may be as simple,and inexpensive as one of these components.

:) :) :)
Users browsing this topic
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.