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Hello,
I had the orange glow and obvsiouly had the lower oven element go out. I found the part on this forum, ordered it.
I got the part and the part number on the box was correct but the shape was different. More like a heart than the coiled wires that it requires. I knew that something was wrong so I called Appliance Part Pros customer service. Arguing with the support person that the part did not look like it should he convinced me to give it a try, that the manufacturer original part had been replaced and the manufacturer said that the part should work.
When trying it the circuit breaker switched off. I emailed and explained the issue and Appliance Parts Pros sent a new part, the correct one, this time.
I plugged it in and now the heating element still does not work. I don't know if the wrong part blew something inside of the unit, the circruit board maybe? I have the back off, I am looking at it and I am not exactly sure how to test the circuits and try to get it to work.
Did the incorrect part blow something? My wife is convinced that was the problem but I am not sure how to fix this issue.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
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Rank: Member
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The stovetop works but the broil and bake functions and even clean do not do anything.
I can only assume that the wrong part messed up something. Not sure what to do now to check for current.
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Any help on the matter? Does the control clock thing need to be replaced as well?
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Originally Posted by: donlaur  Any help on the matter? Does the control clock thing need to be replaced as well? Don, Is this the part you orderred and recieved, doesn't sound or look like it ? Part number: AP4101290
Manufacturing part number 74011117 Since you have the back off and have access to the terminal block, you can check and make sure you have 220 -240 VAC across the two outside terminals on the block, also check for 110 - 120 VAC from the center terminal to each outside terminal on the block, That way we know and varify, you have the proper voltage to the range. Next step, Does the broil element work ? It is not un common, for a relay on the ERC to short or fail when there is a voltage spike on a circuit, you may need a new ERC Part number: AP4097677
To check for power to the element, from the ERC place your meter probes across the two element terminals, program a bake cycle and temperature, and check for 210-220 VAC across the two terminals, no 220 vac turn power off and disconnect the wires from the element terminals,power back up , program a bake cycle and check each of the wire terminals to chassis ground for 110-120 VAC., if you have the voltages, you have a bad element, or a loose wire connection. If you don't have the voltage, you will need to access the ERC, With power supplied to the unit (power in to ERC ) Check for 110 VAC on connector P3(black) pin #3 & 4 to chassis ground, Check for 110 VAC on connector P4(green) pin #1 & 2 to chassis ground. Program a bake cycle, (power out to elements) Check for 110 VAC on connector P3 pin #2(bake) and pin #1(broil) to chassis ground. Check for 110 VAC on connector P4 pin #3(bake) and pin #4(broil) to chassis ground. Any missing voltages, on this test, would indicate a bad ERC and will also need to be replaced, along with the proper element. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Yes, that was the part I ordered, however a different part came. I called and said that the part looked nothing like the photo, or the old one, but I was told that via phone service that the part I ordered was replaced by the manufacturer and it might look different. the numbers on the box was correct but the part actually didn't have any part numbers on it.
Long story stort, it was close and had the same connectors but was more like a heart shape than the curl back and forth. After calling I was sent the correct part that I ordered and was told that I did in fact have. I just don't really want to spend $160 for this clock part if replacing it doesn't fix it ... I don't know if I can return it if it doesn't work. Is there any other part of the oven that can go bad after an element goes out?
The circuits show a high limit switch that apparently wasn't made in the unit ... the broiler doesn't work ... the range does. The clock can be set, but if I put it on bake or broil it just clicks and stays at 100 degrees with no heat in there.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: donlaur Yes, that was the part I ordered, however a different part came. I called and said that the part looked nothing like the photo, or the old one, but I was told that via phone service that the part I ordered was replaced by the manufacturer and it might look different. the numbers on the box was correct but the part actually didn't have any part numbers on it.
Long story stort, it was close and had the same connectors but was more like a heart shape than the curl back and forth. After calling I was sent the correct part that I ordered and was told that I did in fact have. I just don't really want to spend $160 for this clock part if replacing it doesn't fix it ... I don't know if I can return it if it doesn't work. Is there any other part of the oven that can go bad after an element goes out?
The circuits show a high limit switch that apparently wasn't made in the unit ... the broiler doesn't work ... the range does. The clock can be set, but if I put it on bake or broil it just clicks and stays at 100 degrees with no heat in there. Don, I'll have our Parts Resource Team, check our part number and stock, in the warehouse, as for physical description, it is possible that a new part, or substitute part may look different, but it should be a functional part. The part you recieved still should have worked. Have you reset the breakers, and run the voltage tests, I reccomended in my previous post ? You will need to be careful, so you don't hurt yourself, or short anything out, and cause more damage to the comonents. That's the only way we'll know what else is wrong. I'll keep an eye out for your next post. :) :) :)
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I Have The Same Problem I Did Your Tests And The Only Problem I Found Is That When Checking Voltage At The Elements I Had No 220 But I Had 110 To Each Leg. So Is My Element Bad Or The Erc?
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Originally Posted by: shawnh1982 I Have The Same Problem I Did Your Tests And The Only Problem I Found Is That When Checking Voltage At The Elements I Had No 220 But I Had 110 To Each Leg. So Is My Element Bad Or The Erc? Shawnh, The wires were off the element and you did check each wire to chassis ground for 110 VAC, correct ? Recheck the element resistance with a meter, across the element terminals the bake element should have a resistance of 18 to 20 ohms, and the broil element should have 16 to 18 ohms resistance. If you read 120 VAC from each element wire to chassis ground, with the clock in a bake cycle, then all's OK and the element should be the issue. Or If you only read 110 VAC with the wires attached to the element, you're loosing one of the power legs due to a loose connection, or damaged wire.
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