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Have Kenmore 90 Series Gas Dryer, Model 110.74912200. Converted from LNG (Nat. Gas) to LP (Propane) DRYER WILL NOT LIGHT! NO HEAT. Have replaced the following parts:
- Igniter
- Flame Sensor
- Gas Coils (Holding and Assist)
- Thermal Cutoff
- Cycling Thermostat
The drum tumbles, but no heat. The igniter appears to be working correctly when viewed from the inspection port. But Gas does not appear to ignite after a few seconds (when the igniter starts to dim). There is a cyclic "buzzing" noise, at approximately 15-20sec intervals, that lasts about 15 seconds. What do we need to look at next? We suspect it may be the gas valve assembly, but don't really have a clue. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED!!!
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Hi Charley,
How did you convert it? Which parts did you replace?
Did you check the gas shut off valve on the back of the dryer?
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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The propane conversion kit part no. was ap3111855
The supply propane shut off valve (I installed) to the back of the dryer had been opened and was supplying gas to the dryer. Does the dryer itself have its own gas shut off? If so, where is it located?
The parts I replaced are:
igniter kit and bracket part no. ap2910747
I appreciate any advice you can give me!
flame sensor part no. ap2910747
coil kit for dryer gas valve (2 coils) part no.ap3094251
thermal cut off part no. ap3176214
dryer cycling thermostat part no. ap3131939
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Did you install the orifice #54 and the blocking pin as described in the installation instructions included in the conversion kit? Make sure you did not miss the spring and the regulator (#17 & #16 on the diagram) and they are installed properly. Does your gas tank have its own pressure regulator sufficient for a dryer? Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Did you install the orifice #54 and the blocking pin as described in the installation instructions included in the conversion kit? Make sure you did not miss the spring and the regulator (#17 & #16 on the diagram) and they are installed properly. Does your gas tank have its own pressure regulator sufficient for a dryer? Gene. Gene, The orifice "spud" installed was marked #54 (LP), and we did not miss the spring in the regulator installation (the correct blocking pin was installed). Also checked with the gas company. The pressure regulator was said to be sufficient for a dryer. The LP stove, hot water heater, and furnace are all working correctly. Is there a possibility of another part to look at? could the gas valve itself be the culprit? i.e. the gas coils have been replaced, but physically, the magnetic valve won't open??? We still are not getting any flame/firing. The igniter appears to be working. The gas valve is open to the appliance. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Charley,
Did the dryer work before you convert it? I mean did YOU see it working?
Gene.
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No, I did not see it working
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Rank: Advanced Member
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In such situation possible the gas valve itself is bad. The new gas valve comes equipped for NP and has to be converted. - The gas valve Part number: AP3081145
Gene.
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Gene-
I have not seen it working - (my son gave it to me)
It's appears to be in good shape but no heat.
I've come to the conclusion the gas valve must be defective.
The new coils make an intermittant cyclical buzzing but no gas fires.
It seems I've replaced most of the gas parts but the valve itself.
In your opinion is it time to put this puppy out of it's misery and find a new victim? In spending more $$$ on the gas valve am I wasting my time and money on a risky guess?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Charley,
If you ordered any part from Appliance Parts Pros then you can return it even if it was installed.
If you'll buy another used dryer you can be in about the same position with some repair required. A brand new dryer will cost you at least $350 and you could not do the conversion yourself because it will void the warranty. So some more money to pay for conversion.
Gene.
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