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Our Kenmore clothes dryer won't dry clothes when we put it on the Auto Cycle. They come out wet. If we put it on the 60 minute timed cycle, they are half dry, and if we do another 60 minute timed cycle, they are dry. So it is getting some heat, but not enough.
I took off the back panel and checked ohms of resistance in all the parts as this site suggests:
Everything had 0 ohms of resistance, except part 3387134. That part has two sets of wires. On the inner set, it has 7K of resistance, while on the outer set it has 0. Is this ok?
What else should I check? Thank you for any help.
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for KENMORE 11060202990 | AppliancePartsPros.com[COLOR="Blue"]Everything had 0 ohms of resistance, except part 3387134. That part has two sets of wires. On the inner set, it has 7K of resistance, while on the outer set it has 0. Is this ok?[/COLOR] Yes this looks OK. 2 of the wires are the thermostat's contacts, the other 2 are a heater that is built into the thermostat. It is turned on for delicate (low heat) cycles. heat to the thermostat which results in the dryer cycling more ofter and therefore running cooler. [COLOR="Blue"] I took off the back panel and checked ohms of resistance in all the parts as this site suggests:[/COLOR] Did you check the heating element? Unplug the unit and both wires at the heating coil. Measure it, it should be around 11 ohms. Then measure from each side of the heating coil to the case/frame. Both should be infinite ohms (open). If not you have a grounded element which can cause it to run cool. [COLOR="Blue"]What else should I check? [/COLOR] The most common cause of poor drying is a dirty vent system. Undo the dryer from the exhaust Run a load If the load dries correctly then you have a vent problem. Clean/check the vent system. Make sure the outside louvers open fully. If you do not want lint in the house. Take a pair of pantyhose, put one leg into the other and attach this to the dryer exhaust. Leave enough room behind the dryer so it can blow out like a windsock. Run a load. Both the above will allow you to check the air flow and temp. You need both fpr decent drying results. |
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Thank you Denman,
I just checked the heating element again. I measured across the heating coil, and I get 0 ohms. Is this ok? You mentioned it should be 11 ohms. I measure from each side of the heating coil to the case and both of those give me infinite resistance.
I checked the vent system before, but I will try a test load like you suggested.
Thanks!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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[COLOR="Blue"]I just checked the heating element again. I measured across the heating coil, and I get 0 ohms. Is this ok?[/COLOR] No. But I think it is just how you are measuring it. If it was a true 0 ohms that would be a dead short and it would blow your breaker.
Use a more sensitive meter scale re: 200 ohms. |
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