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abm007  
#1 Posted : Thursday, December 30, 2010 12:19:29 AM(UTC)
abm007

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Joined: 12/30/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1

Having problems with washer not completing cycle. Loud buzzing as motor tries to start the spin cycle, but within a few seconds it trips the overload protection circuit. Then it cools off for a couple minutes and tries again and the overload trips again. It does run enough to start the tub spinning and the tub seems to spin freely.

I took the motor and pump out, the belt is pretty much shot. But I tried running the motor with the pump and the belt _both_ disconnected, so basically just the motor spinning itself with no load and it still tripped the overload. I ohmed it out and everything seems ok, but I'm assuming the motor is shot. The pump doesn't spin all that freely, so I think I'm looking at a new pump, belt and motor.

The question is how can I be sure the problem is the motor and not the timer/controller sending conflicting signals to the motor? It would be a shame to put a $200 pump in and have the controller burn it out.

Any troubleshooting advice? This is the first time I've dug this deep into a washing machine, so all advice is appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
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richappy  
#2 Posted : Thursday, December 30, 2010 2:18:54 AM(UTC)
richappy

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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
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Diagnosing Maytag top loader motor problems:
See if the motor will trip out in slow speed also. If so, I would suspect a bad timer. If you have an
amp probe check start current,( refer to the schematic for the proper wire) if zero, that would verify bad timer. If current, (You will only have a few seconds to measure) check the high or low speed current and the start winding current. Anyone may be very high. If you have no amp probe, I would buy one, worth spending like $45 to save buying the wrong parts. Without an amp probe, you will probably not be able to fix this.
Also, try agitate mode to see if it still works.
Your timer is a black, plastic one that you can't take apart to check contacts to confirm.
Usually, if any winding current is way over say 10 amps,( this is a guess for locked rotor current, but I remember a locked rotor current in a bad motor to be around 30 amp) you have a bad motor. Also, check that the motor is not hard to turn.
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