Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram.
Replacement parts for ADMIRAL LNC7764A71 DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com

[COLOR="Blue"]Electric dryer will not start. I've initiated the following;
1) Checked power source for continuity[/COLOR]
Not sure what you mean.
Did you check for power with a meter?
Does the interior light work? If it does then you know that power to run the motor is OK (L1 to Neutral = 120 volts)

[COLOR="Blue"]2) Checked door switch, still has tension
3) Replaced High Limit Unit and Fuse
4) Replaced Control timer[/COLOR]
Looking at the above it looks like you do not have a meter.
Just because the door switch has tension does not mean that it is OK. Even if it turns the interior light on/off does not mean it is OK. The contacts for the motor/start may still be no good. To check properly you have to use a meter.

I would check the door switch first.
Then the fuse. Would not be the first time that a new part was bad.
If OK
Then I would tape a meter lead to the Neutral and then work your way back through the wiring till you find the open part/connection/wire.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Better late than never.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]I took the timer switch out and tested connectors to what looked like the wires running from the start button to the timer and it did not register on the meter. I do not know if it would or not???[/COLOR]
Yes the resistance should have dropped to zero when the switch was activated

Unplug the unit. Timer set to OFF. Set your meter to the 200 ohm scale. One meter lead goes on the Neutral of the power cord, just be sure it is Neutral and not ground, the other lead goes to the S connector on the timer. You should read a couple ohms, this checks the motor windings,the door switch and the thermal fuse.

Now instead of S move to M, it should read open. Push the start switch and it should drop to the couple ohms. This checks the start switch.

Now set your timer to auto mid scale. Now instead of M move to L. Try pushing the start switch again and you should see a couple ohms again. This check the run contacts M/L in the timer.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]So i need to keep the start button wire connected to the timer switch/motor when testing the timer switch/motor unit, am I reading this correct?[/COLOR]
Yes.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]
I hope I reply with atleast a smart reply as I said I am not to handy but I am trying hard to learn all of this and fix my dryer.[/COLOR]
Don't sweat it. At one time none of us were handy and the only real way to learn is by doing so you are well on your way.

All the below may be just be extra info as it does sound like your timer is toast. It should not rattle.
Just so you know I am off to the cabin tomorrow for a few days so will be unavailable.
I hope the below does not add to your confusion. It really is fairly simple once you get the hang of it.

I tried to find a cross reference for the timer connection designation and could not find anything so we will have to attack it from a different angle. Hopefully the wiring colors are correct.

After 30 years of fixing electronic/electrical devices, reading wiring diagrams has become second nature to me but you may want to do the following. Copy the wiring diagram. Right click and paste it into word, you can then expand it to a full page. Then print yourself a couple copies of it. Then get out some colored pencils/pens, you can then trace the circuits out. The timing chart shows you which timer contacts are closed when. I still do this with complicated circuits, makes understanding what is going on much easier.
One thing to note is that the wiring diagram is missing one wire The REI wire on the right hand side of the MOTOR CENT. SWITCH goes directly to L2 so add this in.

Since you are a newbie perhaps some basic info may help.
A dryer basically has two separate systems
The motor\light\buzzer which runs off of 120 volts [Neutral (white) to L1 (Black)]
The heater which runs off 240 volts [L2 (red) to L1 (black)]
When in Auto modes there is some interaction between the two. This is for the power to the timer motor. I do not want to make this too complicated so see [COLOR="Blue"](A)[/COLOR] at the end of the post.
So in timed dry you can basically split the diagram. The upper half being the motor and the lower half being the heater.

Your motor circuit is Neutral : thermal fuse : door switch C/NO contacts : motor protector : motor's run and aux windings : purple wire : start switch : M/L timer contacts : L1

So if you disconnect the purple from the timer and measure from it to neutral you should see a couple ohms. This is the motor's run and aux windings.
If you then reconnect the purple and measure Neutral to L1 (on most units all black wires will be L1). You should see infinite ohms (open) as all timer contacts should be open when at off.
Now put your timer to timed dry and measure from Neutral (white) to L1 (black). You should see a resistance, I am not sure what it will be but this is the timer motor winding.
Now push the start button and it should drop to the reading you got when you measured the purple wire as the motor windings are now switched into the circuit.

Once the motor gets close to the operating speed the centrifugal switches close So the motors aux winding is disconnected and the motor circuit is now: Neutral : thermal fuse : door switch C/NO contacts : motor protector : run winding : orange wire : timer contacts M/L : L1.
This lets you release the start switch and the motor keeps running.


[COLOR="Blue"](A)[/COLOR] In timed dry the timer motor get power from Neutral through the N/TM contacts, the timer motor, the M/L contacts to L1.
In auto mode it gets power from the 240 volts L2 to L1. This is through the heating element when the heating element is turned off by a thermostat. So the circuit path is L2 through the centrifugal switch (closed when motor is running) through the heating element then the red wire to R connection point on the timer. Now here is where it gets a tad confusing for many people. When the heater is on you have L1 on the left hand side of it and L2 on the right hand side of it giving the 240 volts. When a thermostat opens you loose the L1 on the left hand side of it and all you have is L2 on the right hand side.
Since the heating element has no current going through it, it does not drop any voltage so you now have L2 voltage also on the left hand side of it.
So now you have L2 voltage at timer connector R. This then runs through the resistor which drops the voltage to 120 volts to timer connector A, then through A/TM contacts, the timer motor M/L contacts and to L1 completeing the circuit.