Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
kevinzoch  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, December 8, 2010 8:34:58 PM(UTC)
kevinzoch

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/8/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

I just replaced the dispenser on my dishwasher. The motor attached to the dispenser makes a very loud rattling sound. How do I correct it?
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, December 9, 2010 1:39:55 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
[COLOR="Blue"]The motor attached to the dispenser makes a very loud rattling sound.[/COLOR]
There is no motor on the dispenser, it is run by a solenoid.
Was this what the old dispenser was doing?

[COLOR="Blue"]How do I correct it?[/COLOR]
I am assuming that the rattling only occurs when the dispenser is trying to open (relay chatter).
Remove the dispenser and check that you can activated it manually, just in case it is a mechanical problem.
You could check the solenoid winding for resistance, should be 280 to 340 ohms.

The best way to check it is to hook it up to a line cord, then plug the line cord in to see if the solenoid will open the dispenser properly. This is also a dangerous method so be care full that the line cord wires cannot short to each other and you do not get a shock.
If it works OK here then I would suspect the control board re: triac.

The solenoid is run by a triac on the control board. A triac is a solid state device that passes AC current when triggered. If the triac blows it can pass only half the 120 volt AC so you end up with about 60 volts AC feeding the solenoid. This is not enough to pull the solenoid in properly and you get chatter.

Could be you received a defective replacement.
I would suspect this if the original problem was different.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kevinzoch  
#3 Posted : Thursday, December 9, 2010 10:02:59 AM(UTC)
kevinzoch

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/8/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

You are right! The old Solenoid was buzzing as well. Do I need to replace the who control board?
denman  
#4 Posted : Thursday, December 9, 2010 12:38:49 PM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
[COLOR="Blue"]Do I need to replace the who control board?[/COLOR]
In most cases the answer is yes.

Personally I would trace back the wires / board trails to the correct part and then replace that triac.
With luck the triac will have manufacturer's numbers on it so you can get a replacement from an electronics supply house.
You will need some de-soldering and soldering knowledge.

The above is a gamble as it could be that IC that controls the triac is not working correctly but worth the risk due to the difference in cost.
You would need an Oscope to fully troubleshoot down to component level.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kevinzoch  
#5 Posted : Thursday, December 9, 2010 2:01:33 PM(UTC)
kevinzoch

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/8/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

I appreciate your response but I'm not sure my experience level is up to it.
Users browsing this topic
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.