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My Kitchen aid fridge/freezer is not working. The model # is KSRD22FKBT14. The compressor is very hot to the touch. I took the below part off and the white piece shakes like it is broken in the inside. Any thoughts on if this is the only part needed to be replaced? Pics of it below... thank you! scooter m attached the following image(s):
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I would replace the start device with AP3885081. Comes as a kit. I would use the separate small, black start device and the separate overload klyxon, small thin device. Both items are more reliable than the old one.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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When you say the unit is not working do you mean that there is no coolinfg at all re: no frost on the evaporator coils. That the compressor is hot seems to indicate that it is getting power. Is it vibrating? If you let the compressor cool down, will it start up? Is the condenser (compressor) fan running? Here is a good site with info on how to check components. Refrigerator Repair Guide: How To Fix a Refrigerator - ACME HOW TO.comI would check the compressor windings. Note: That if both windings check out OK it does not eliminate the compressor as the problem. It could still have internal mechanical problems. But if one of the coils is open or shorted to the case then you know that it is toast. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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