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the dryer lights up ,does not start.we did turn off power for more than 3min.door is shut.
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Originally Posted by: denman  Here are your parts Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL WED6200SW1 29``ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.comThis should help with the repair https://secured.whirlpoo...5435db/$FILE/8178584.pdfYou will see a thermal fuse (Item 7 in Section 3 of the parts). This is a likely culprit. Unplug the unit and check the fuse with a meter should be 0 ohms. Jiggery Pokery method is. Unplug the unit. Remove both wires from the fuse, short them together and tape them up so they will not short to the frame. Plug the unit in and give it a try. If blown, replace the fuse ASAP as it is a critical safety device re: prevents lint fires which can turn into house fires. Also clean/check your vent system and the blower as these are the most common causes of it blowing. This is GREAT HELP thanks alot
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:) greater 324903 wrote:This is GREAT HELP thanks alot :rolleyes: we took out thremol fuse ,used dryer have been watching closly,it is getting to hot ,would thremol fuse cause this.or do i need to order thermol fuse and something else?dryer is about 15 months old.
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[COLOR="Blue"]we took out thremol fuse ,used dryer have been watching closly,it is getting to hot ,would thremol fuse cause this.[/COLOR]
Not it will not cause overheating.
The overheating probably blew the fuse.
[COLOR="Blue"]
or do i need to order thermol fuse and something else?dryer is about 15 months old.[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Red"]Do not run this unit without a fuse in it !!!![/COLOR]
Shorting it out is only for testing purposes.
Running without it could cause a fire and end up burning down your house.
Have you checked/cleaned your vent system.
Check /clean the blower wheel.
Check the exhaust thermistor resistance.
Check that the seals in the unit are OK. What can happen is that if a seal is shot the unit sucks in room air and then the thermistor sees this as a cooler temperature and runs hot.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it or the hi-limit thermostat regulates it but it is always on high heat.
If the above are OK then odds are that the control board is shot. |
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