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This is the 2nd time our oven quit heating after auto self cleaning. Any ideas what the actual source of the problem is? And if the thermostat has to be replaced again, does the oven have to come out or are the 2 screws located inside the oven above the heating element tube an easy way to get to the thermostat?
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The problem you described has been most common problem for all Whirlpool and Kitchen Aid build in electric ovens for many years. If the display still working and the only problem is that the oven is not heating then the oven shutdown thermal fuse (#37 on the diagram) is open and has to be replaced. The oven has to be removed from the cabinet to access the part. In order to avoid such problem in the future you can just stop using the self clean. If you would prefer to use it then the solution offered by Whirlpool is to replace the blower motor (#3 on the diagram). Before you'll do it you have to perform the following steps: 1. Check to see that the oven door closes completely so that hot air from the oven is not escaping from the door opening and pulled into the air vent. 2. Check to see that the door does not open beyond a 90˚ angle. (Worn hinges and receivers, bowed inner door liner) which can allow hot air to escape on be pulled into the air vent. 3. Check for damage to the door gasket so that hot air from the oven is not escaping from around the door and pulled into the air vent. 4. Check the oven venting (obstruction in the vent or smoke eliminator, crushed, separated vent, etc.). - The oven shutdown thermal fuse Part number: AP3885687
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We just had the same thing happen to us, same exact oven, just last week. In our case, our control panel was also fried. When we replaced the thermostat, we still had a non-working oven. So frustrating. But we replaced the control panel and we are back in business. Someone mentioned to us that if we replaced the thermostat but not the temperature sensor, we'd just blow the thermostat again the next time we self-clean. All I know is that we won't be doing the self-clean again in the future. It's just not worth the hassle!
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Thank you Loril and Gene. Two more questions now come to mind Gene.. should I be able to feel air from the front lower part of the door at all? I actually feel air blowing from along the entire bottom edge. And Loril mentioned a temperature sensor, is there one in the model of oven I have? Thank you.
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Gene or whomever, I’ve experienced this twice myself and as most others it happens after a self cleaning. My question is why not changing to a slightly higher temp switch? I say this because it seems that the temp range for this switch is on the ragged edge of what it sees during self cleaning.. This switch is a 120c limit and I’m considering switching to something like 285-40f.. Aside from the added risk of an additional 37deg why would this not be acceptable?? Additional the 285-40F switch is MUCH CHEAPER..
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Originally Posted by: nickernoo  ...should I be able to feel air from the front lower part of the door at all? I actually feel air blowing from along the entire bottom edge...
...And Loril mentioned a temperature sensor... As long as the blower fan is on it is normal to feel air blowing at the bottom of the oven. Temperature sensor has nothing to do with this problem. Gene.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: ClassE ...My question is why not changing to a slightly higher temp switch?.... I believe Whirlpool engineering department investigated this problem and found that the correction is to replace the blower motor. This is beyond a doubt to me. Quote:...Aside from the added risk of an additional 37deg why would this not be acceptable??... And this added risk is not a good reason not to do it? Gene.
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