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woof  
#1 Posted : Thursday, November 18, 2010 10:36:08 AM(UTC)
woof

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Joined: 11/18/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1

Ok quick history first: The timer switch on the dryer started "acting up" a few months ago. The dryer would run just fine, but sometimes it wouldn't shut off. We've lived with this issue for a while, just turning it off manually (the buzzer would still buzz at the end of the cycle, it just kept running and running. ) But last week, it stopped dead. The timer switch felt "wrong" when I turned it, like it wasn't hitting all of the "clicks" as it turned

Therefore I deduced that the timer switch needed to be replaced. so I oredered a new one and swapped them.

The new switch is behaving exactly like the old one. the dryer will not work at all, and the switch feels "wrong" like it's loose on the inside and not hitting all of the "clicks"


Is it possible that I got a new switch that is not only bad out of the box, but seems to have the exact same default as my old one ? (I have a hard time believing in coincidence)

Or is there something else going on here?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, November 19, 2010 12:53:22 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram
Replacement parts for MAYTAG PYE2200AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

Getting a replacement with the exact same problem is not impossible but the odds are very very low.

First check the power to the unit.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

If power is OK.
I would then check the thermal fuse (Item 5 in Section 4)
If it is blown you have to find out what caused it to go.
Note: that sometimes they do just blow on their own but changing it without checking other things is a gamble. I believe richappy (another regular poster on this forum) has done a study on thermostats and found a wide variation of actual trip point and what is specified.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal fuse blows.

If the above is OK then you will also have to replace the hi-limit as it should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.

You still have to find out why it blew.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut).

If the fuse is OK, check the door switch.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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