I love this oven and I do not want to get rid of it. Please save it from the graveyard! There is no power to the control board but the cook top works. I purchased a new display/control board and installed but it still does not work. I looked for the thermal fuse but could not find it under the back cover. The oven stopped working during/after a cleaning cycle and has not worked since. The connector to the control board has 240 VAC going through it so I know the control board/display is getting power. Is there a special sequence I need to execute to get the new control borad to work?? Sincerely Puzzled (and fustrated)! Thank you so much for your help in advance!

Clark,

Do you have a multi meter ?

As stated before , there is no thermal fuse in the circuitry and if your display is blank,

You've lost power to the clock.

If you have a meter, you can check :

The P6 connector on the ERC(clock),
(unplug and check on the wire harness connector)

Pin #1 Black wire, to pin#3 white wire,

You should read 110 - 120 volts AC
*** Be careful, don't hurt yourself or short anything out ***

If you have the voltage, you have a bad ERC.

If you don't, start checking wires,connectors, and terminals for damage, burnt, loose,etc.

Good Luck,
:) :)

Clark,

Now we need to do voltage checks, where the power cord is attached to the junction box on the range.

Your terminal block should have 3 terminals where the wires attach.

left / black, center / white, and right/red.

Across the outside terminals,(red to black)with the range plugged in.
***( be careful don't shock yourself)***

You should read 220-240 volts AC

From each outside terminal to the middle terminal(white) you should read 110 - 120 volts AC.

If you have those readings, then you'll need to check the black wire(P6-1) to the clock, the wire is not carrying the load to the clock(90 VAC) for loose connections and weak spots in the wire.

If you read something other than those voltages(high or low) You've got a problem in the wiring to the range(loose connection at the outlet, loose connection at the terminal block,loose wire at the breaker box or in the conduit(electrician needed).

Good Luck,

:) :) :)

Clark,

With those readings,

You've got a couple of possibilities :

1) You may have a bad power cord, (but not likely), or loose connections at the terminal / wire connections on the outlet itself,

2) You most likely have lost the Neutral leg(white wire) integrity on your
power supply wiring, You're going to need an Electrician.

** with the numbers you supplied, a good electrician, will know what to check and do, but he should do his tests with the range under a load **

If you check voltage at the outlet, you'll most likely get the proper voltage readings on your meter.

When you plug the power cord in, the range is under a "load" because of the ERC,and a couple of other comonents.

A weak/bad neutral leg, will not allow the voltage to flow through the supply wiring and components properly, and there is a "back up" and the stray voltage migrates over to the other power leg, so you see an increase on one power leg, and a decrease on the other.

Hope this helps,

Good Luck,
:) :) :)

Myersv, If you conducted the voltage checks per the previous posts, and all was OK, you have a faulty ERC/Clock

Part number: AP3841171