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lrg51  
#1 Posted : Saturday, September 29, 2007 8:30:29 AM(UTC)
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lrg51

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Hi Guys,

Purchased a round igniter for GE Spectrum gas oven. Would appreciate instructions to stall. Looks like a lot of disassembly to do it.

Thanks in advance...
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Admin / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Saturday, September 29, 2007 9:54:06 AM(UTC)
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Hi,

It's usually pretty simple. Start by turning power off to the oven - unplug it or disconnect power at the circuit breaker. Open oven door, remove all racks, then remove oven floor panel (it might be secured with two bolts or clips on the back side). Remove the flame spreader (one nut). Now you have the oven burner and igniter exposed. If the new plug differs from the old, cut off the plug and use ceramic wire nuts (should be supplied with igniter) to connect the wires. Don't shake the igniter - the coil is very fragile. Once the igniter is replaced make sure the wires are connected securely. Put everything back the way it was and test the oven.

Below are the two most popular oven igniters: flat bar igniter and round igniter.

UPDATE: We now have a step-by-step video on how to replace an oven igniter (either flat or round):

Part number: AP205873
Part number: AP205873
- this is by far the most commonly used oven igniter. Includes all necessary pieces to replace longer ceramics. Size: 3-3/4" long. Fits Maytag, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Magic Chef, Tappan, Jenn Air, GE (flat bar only), Sears Kenmore (flat bar only), even some Thermador cooktops and Viking ovens.


Part number: AP3104565
Part number: AP3104565
- this igniter replaces any round oven igniter. Common oven brands to use a round igniter include GE, Roper, Kenmore, Hotpoint, Caloric, Modern Maid, and a few others.

Hope this helps.
lrg51  
#3 Posted : Saturday, September 29, 2007 10:29:11 AM(UTC)
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lrg51

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Originally Posted by: Admin / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Hi,

It's usually pretty simple. Start by turning power off to the oven - unplug it or disconnect power at the circuit breaker. Open oven door, remove all racks, then remove oven floor panel (it might be secured with two bolts or clips on the back side). Remove the flame spreader (one nut). Now you have the oven burner and igniter exposed. If the new plug differs from the old, cut off the plug and use ceramic wire nuts (should be supplied with igniter) to connect the wires. Don't shake the igniter - the coil is very fragile. Once the igniter is replaced make sure the wires are connected securely. Put everything back the way it was and test the oven.

Hope this helps.

OK... This sounds REALLY simple.

So when I cut the wires to the old igniter... I only need to leave a few inches of wire exposed to connect with wire nuts. The wire nuts that came with the unit must be able to handle oven temperatures...

Thanks again...
Admin / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Saturday, September 29, 2007 10:33:12 AM(UTC)
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I only need to leave a few inches of wire exposed to connect with wire nuts.
Correct

Quote:
The wire nuts that came with the unit must be able to handle oven temperatures...
Yes, the wire nuts included are hi-temp resistant ceramic wire nuts.
VBN  
#5 Posted : Thursday, November 15, 2007 6:57:48 AM(UTC)
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VBN

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I just pruchased an apartment which has a caloric gas oven range(old one)- The rear right gas stove works when iginated- all the other 3 stove have to be manually lit, I have not tried the oven/broiler which at present does not work. When trying to light the non-working stove(3 and oven) there is no clicking sound of ignitor, one the working stove has the clicking sound- Can you help advice. Thank you
Gene  
#6 Posted : Friday, November 16, 2007 12:53:04 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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In order to provide most accurate advise we need the complete model number of the range.

Gene.
VBN  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, November 20, 2007 9:28:58 AM(UTC)
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VBN

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I just moved in to an apartment which had an Caloric RLS 359-UL oven Range.
The right rear stove is the only stove that works with the ignitor- the rest can work if lit manually.The igntor's click on the working side is very faint(low click sound and not consistant). In looking under the top hood the ignitiors( both right and left) look kind of worn out.The transparent wire from under the left side igintor looks like it had been cut or snap off as I think I see the continuing portion of this same wire bundled up with the rest of the other wires which leads to the back of the range. Also the Oven/ Broler does not work- The Ignitor works faintly(low click) and in looking light up the pilot flame at the broiler area but the burner does not light up- i treid to light it manually and nothing happens- I dont think that the gas is coming thru the burner but only to the pilot flame . Please help .Thank you
Gene  
#8 Posted : Tuesday, November 20, 2007 9:55:01 AM(UTC)
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Gene

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One very important question:
does the flame on the oven pilot light extend when you turn the thermostat on?
If it does, then you can fix the rest of problems.
If it does not, then the oven thermostat has to be replaced among the other parts and the thermostat is no longer available.

Gene.
VBN  
#9 Posted : Tuesday, November 20, 2007 10:12:55 AM(UTC)
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VBN

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Dont know what you mean if flame extends? When I turn the knob of the Oven/Broiler ON the iginitor clicks(faintly) the pilot flame goes on and remaims On but the burner next to it does not- It looks like the gas is not flowing thru the burner- I tried lighting it with a manual lighter even with the pilot flame On and it does not light up- please advice. Thanks for your help
Gene  
#10 Posted : Tuesday, November 20, 2007 10:49:37 AM(UTC)
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Gene

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In my opinion the following parts have to be replaced:

- Both left and right surface igniters, part number AP4286872

- The spark module, part number AP99968

- The oven gas safety valve, part number AP3970866

- The oven pilot, part number AP3969384


- Here are the break down diagrams for the Caloric range Model RLS359

Gene.
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