Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
Ginnyndoug  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, November 16, 2010 5:29:27 AM(UTC)
Ginnyndoug

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/16/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

I just installed a maytag over the range microwave after it sat new in a box for 2 1/2 years. The vent fan came on two days later when the oven under it was in operation. Now it won't shut off. The fan still changes speeds it just stays on low when it should be off. A service man came yesterday and he thinks its the fan motor, but the motor works. what do you think??
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, November 16, 2010 7:05:11 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: Ginnyndoug Go to Quoted Post
I just installed a maytag over the range microwave after it sat new in a box for 2 1/2 years. The vent fan came on two days later when the oven under it was in operation. Now it won't shut off. The fan still changes speeds it just stays on low when it should be off. A service man came yesterday and he thinks its the fan motor, but the motor works. what do you think??



Doug Ginny,

I think you have a crossed wire or a bad cooling fan thermostat.

Part number: AP4219754
Part number: AP4219754


They are located behind the control panel, and are mounted on the bottom of the microwave interior panel.

The thermostat with the yellow and black wires, should be an open circuit below 160 degrees.

When the control area temperature is at or above that temp. it turns the vent fan on to cool the interior components.(it may turn on the fan, whenever the temp is reached, it will reset and the fan will shut down).

The thermostat with two black wires, should be a closed circuit, below 250 degrees.

When the control area is at or above that temp. the thermostat opens and shuts the unit off.(it will not reset and will need to be replaced).

You could have a miswired vent motor, but I would not start there.

If your thermostats check properly, then I would investigate the door switch(s) and circuits from there.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)
Ginnyndoug  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, November 16, 2010 9:00:49 AM(UTC)
Ginnyndoug

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/16/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

Thank you Joe, we will try that. I will see if I can find somebody that know how to check them.
Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, November 16, 2010 12:53:56 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: Ginnyndoug Go to Quoted Post
Thank you Joe, we will try that. I will see if I can find somebody that know how to check them.


Ok,
Maybe call the servicer back, and have him check ?

You're welcome,

Good Luck,
:) :) :) :)
Ginnyndoug  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, December 1, 2010 10:45:39 AM(UTC)
Ginnyndoug

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/16/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

Sorry to say that wasn't the fix. The thermostate and shipping was $10.00. I thought it would be worth a try but the fan still runs all the time.
Joe / APP Team  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, December 1, 2010 12:34:52 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: Ginnyndoug Go to Quoted Post
Sorry to say that wasn't the fix. The thermostate and shipping was $10.00. I thought it would be worth a try but the fan still runs all the time.



GinnynDoug,

Sorry to hear that, I was hoping for you.

It sounds like you Don't have a multi meter to run the rest of the resistance checks on the wiring and components, and you're going to need one.

There are a couple of possibilities :

The Yellow wire in connector 04 at the PCB (control board)may be pinched or shorted to the cabinet, causing a neutral leg short to ground and causing he motor to run.

The low speed relay on the PCB(control board) is stuck closed,and causing the motor to run on the low speed.

The vent motor speed button is stuck ( not likely, but a possibility).

As long as the unit is plugged in, there is 120 VAC sitting at/on the motor.

The motor runs when the circuit is closed to neutral through the Hood TCO or the Vent Motor Relay on the PCB(control board).

A stuck vent button would cause the relay to remain closed all the time as well.

I would not reccomend you start replacing these expensive parts, just to find out we've got a pinched, shorted wire.

A meter from APP would be a less expensive route to take, in the long run.

Part number: AP3440648
Part number: AP3440648


:cool: :cool: :cool:
Users browsing this topic
Guest (3)
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.