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njnut  
#1 Posted : Sunday, November 7, 2010 8:45:54 AM(UTC)
njnut

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About a year ago I noticed black mold spots in sump area of dishwasher. I looked harder and saw it on some of the plastic pieces in tub. I cleaned off and keep cleaning often to stop from happening again along with through cleaning of the gunk that builds up in sump and cracks and cravacess. I saw spots again on the sump only a few days ago. Pulling the accumulator assy off to scrub sump I was amazed to see a build up of what looked like black mold on the bottom of the accumulator assy. It wasnt more than 4-6 months ago I had it off and cleaned off to install new lower arm hub. It wasnt spots but 100% covered with about 1/4 inch of black muck. The sump was spoty only. The feed tube had some spots too. I cleaned and reinstalled but started to look online as to why, I have cleaned this thing with a toothbrush since I had it. I was told hot water not hot enough or heating element bad. OK on the hot water. Heating element never got hot in the anti bac cycle and steam vent never vented. I never saw the problem because I run late at night. Dishes seem to come out very clean. Sears says element no longer avilible but its on your site. But i noticed some other parts my cause it not to work also, is this the most common problem with the element? total failure, or should I start someware else. I am good with this sort of thing and own testers and tools but my main thing is trucks and tractors.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, November 9, 2010 4:55:25 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are the parts
Replacement parts for KENMORE 66516884000 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Part number: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3775605
Part number: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3775605


Note: That there are different heater for plastic and stainless tubs.
The stainless heater includes a new control board.

I would start by removing the kick plate and unplugging / flip the breaker to the unit.

You will see a small plastic disk with a metal face attached to the bottom of the tub, this is the hi-limit thermostat. Remove one wire from it and check it with a meter. It should be 0 ohms.

If OK
Then remove one wire from the heating element and check it, should be about 20 ohms.

If both are OK then you may have a control board or a thermister problem.

I am not sure if the following is an exact match to your unit but it may help.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/4e8b0d2df77cd7e585256cd800643b6d/$FILE/KD01.pdf
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
njnut  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, November 9, 2010 1:27:12 PM(UTC)
njnut

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Thank You for helping me. I will bring my meter home from my shop with me tommorrow. The top link for the Kenmore parts only got me a message that I was in the wrong place but not to give up but I did see the parts listed the other day on the site.It said to call though as there was a condition to using the part. (element) I have the plastic tub. The Whirlpool link was not my washer but is very close so yes it will certinly help me. I did not think that the conrol panel could be part of the problem. Due to 2 dueling warrenty repairmen from Sears when the washer was months old I have a new one in my garage.:) I will start there and than go to the meter.
njnut  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, November 9, 2010 3:18:29 PM(UTC)
njnut

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Joined: 11/7/2010(UTC)
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Denman, I replaced microcomputer in control board with the one I had and ran part of a cycle but the element never got hot at all. I took off the kickplate so I can test the things you told me to tommorow when I saw the tech sheet. It showed what they called "rapid advace service feature and diagnostics cycles". It said the termistor had a open/short detection mode. The clean LED would light during the test, with warm water in tub, if it had one and it did not light. So I am assuming now that it is the element that is bad. I'll see when I get my meter. Thanks for your help.
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