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jmo9556  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, November 3, 2010 5:49:58 PM(UTC)
jmo9556

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Joined: 11/3/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1

Got a strange one. My Whirlpool electric range will not fire up the broiler element. I've replaced the element and the thermal fuse. Still nothing. I did a check from the panel and it shows "good" I hear a click from the left side of the panel, looking from the front, and still nothing. My manuals tell me nothing. So, I guess my question is, what am I missing? Is the panel fried? Everything else works great. The broiler just stopped one day.

Thanks
Jon
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kayakcrzy  
#2 Posted : Thursday, November 4, 2010 3:50:54 AM(UTC)
kayakcrzy

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Joined: 2/1/2008(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: jmo9556 Go to Quoted Post
Got a strange one. My Whirlpool electric range will not fire up the broiler element. I've replaced the element and the thermal fuse. Still nothing. I did a check from the panel and it shows "good" I hear a click from the left side of the panel, looking from the front, and still nothing. My manuals tell me nothing. So, I guess my question is, what am I missing? Is the panel fried? Everything else works great. The broiler just stopped one day.

Thanks
Jon


Jon, just because you hear that click at the clock control, does not mean that it is functioning properly. It is most likely the clock control, since you replace the broiler element. If you want to know for sure. Unplug the stove, and take the 2 wires off of the broiler element, and if you have a volt meter, put one lead on one wire, and the other meter lead on the other wire terminal, and then plug it in, and ask for broil. You should get a 120 volt reading. If not, replace the clock control. Tom Appliance Educator, Appliance Parts, Washer and Dryer Parts, Refridgerator and Freezer Parts, Stove and Oven Parts
denman  
#3 Posted : Thursday, November 4, 2010 6:02:35 AM(UTC)
denman

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I think kayakcrzy had a typo. You should see 240 volts across the element.

Here is the manual which you may already have.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/5feedbe46138625985256aa1005ef62c/$FILE/8178042.pdf

First thing I would do is pull the thermal fuse and check it with a meter to be sure it is 0 ohms. Would not be the first time a part was bad right out of the box. Might not be a bad idea to also check the element, approximately 18 ohms.

It is always a good idea to check parts before installing them, can save you ripping a unit apart twice or going in circles trying to repair a machine because you assume that the new part is good.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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