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Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE CER3600AS1 Frigidaire/electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Webster/131953900.pdf

You keep referring to 120 volts, it is 240 volts that is for the heater

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

[COLOR="Blue"]my dryer wont heat i have checked all heat sensors and element and all sensors ohm to 0 and the coild at 1.[/COLOR]
Not sure what you are measuring (coild). If it was the heating coil then 1 ohm is way too low, it should be about 12 ohms.

[COLOR="Blue"]I also checked the timer motor and it is supposed to be at 4.4ohm and i got 5ohm on the test?[/COLOR]
Only thing I see on the wiring diagram at 4.4 is the resistor and this should be 4,400 ohms not 4.4 ohms. This is not the timer motor winding.

[COLOR="Blue"]So finally i did a live test and all sensors open and are sending 120v through them, I also checked the coil and it has 120v coming to it from both wire leads and 120v on the coil wire itself?[/COLOR]
All sensors should be closed (0 ohms), not open (infinite ohms).
The 120 volts does not tell you much as the heater requires the full 240 (L1 to L2 voltage).

To check your thermostat's and fuses
Unplug the machine.
Always remove one side of any device you are measuring. This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
Since you are checking for 0 ohms use the most sensitive meter scale (200 ohms on most meters.
Before starting short the two meter leads together so you can see what 0 ohms actually reads on the meter. Many times a meter will have a small offset.

i am getting 120 from L1 and L2 at the outlet and am also getting 120 and both wires going to the COIL but when i put the meter on the COIL itself it only reads 120 instead of the 240 it should have since i have a live 120x2 going into it.
It sounds like this is a house wiring problem re: 120 volts from L1 to L2 at the outlet.
Here is a bit of an explanation about 240.
the 240 volts is two 120 volt AC supplies which are 180 degrees out of phase.
When one supply is positive 120 volts, the other is negative 120 volts, so when you measure between the 2 you get 240 volts.
With a meter there is no way to tell which phase you are looking at and both will read 120 volts when measured to Neutral (ground).
Something is is strange that you measure 120 volts across the coil, I cannot explain this.


so since at the k setting on my multimeter i am getting a ohm reading of 1 on the coil and both leads going to it are hot with 120 each then is it the coil itself that it bad?
Not necessarily.
What "k setting", 2k, 200k etc.
Where are you measuring when reading the voltage? Do not measure to Neutral or ground (the machines frame).
Just a bit of explanation.
The heating coil is not hooked up to Neutral. When you measure one side of the coil when referenced to Neutral or ground you will see 120 volts. This is normal. But if lets say one side of the 240 is missing you will see the same 120 volts on the other side as the heater is not passing current and therefore does not drop any voltage across it. The heating coil is basically acting just like a piece of wire.

all other sensors read ZERO when tested except the ones i stated that got a reading?
ZERO is good but I am not sure what the 1 is telling you.
When you turn on the meter with the meter leads not shorted together, what does the display say.

A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

I did try to find you some basic info on electrical circuits etc. Unfortunately everything I found was overly complicated with a slew of formulas.
Hopefully someone else will jump in with a good site/link.

So I would not bother with the dryer until you can get 240 volts between L1 and L2 at the outlet.
[COLOR="Red"]Be very, very careful, 240 volts is lethal!!![/COLOR]

[COLOR="Blue"]so to see if i have 240 at the out let i need to just jump between the L1 and L2 and leave the nuetral alone[/COLOR]
Yes but your term "jump" scares me. This usually means shrt between the two and you definitely do not want to do that. You want to measure between the two.
[COLOR="Blue"]
cause i was checking them seperate with the nuetral to get the 120 per side as well as when i checked the coil itself i was grounding my lead to the frame and hot on coil not putting both leads on L1 and L2?[/COLOR]
Just check for 240 across the heating coil connections.
Neutral does not matter

Check it first at the plug.

Lets find out if you have the correct voltage first.

Looks like you have a house power problem.

Could be a bad connection or a bad breaker.

Have you tried flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times?