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I have a GE Profile dishwasher - model number PDW7300G00WW. It is not filling with water. It will run the cycles electrically but no water fills the tub. We filled it with water from the sink nozzle and it is running now. I have read some bits and pieces about the inlet valve. What can you tell me about replacing that part??.
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for General Electric PDW7300G00WW Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.comWater valve is Item 744 in Section 2. Remove the kick plate. Check the over fill switch/float assembly (305, 306, 490 etc. in Section 2). Sometimes the float can get stuck in the up position and the unit thinks that it is already full of water. If it is the float disassemble and clean it. If switch is being activated. Measure across the water valve when it should be filling. If it has 120 volts then either the valve is shot or the filter is clogged. The valve has a screen filter built into it's input fitting. You will probably have to remove the valve to check/clean the screen filter. Do not permanently remove the screen from the valve as it is there to keep crud out of the valve which could hold it open and cause a flood. If it does not have 120 volts. Measure across the valve fill switch combo. They are wired in series. If 120 volts is there odds are that the float switch is toast. To confirm this, remove power/unplug the unit and check the float switch. It should be 0 ohms. In no voltage is present odds are that the control board is toast. |
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Originally Posted by: denman Here are your parts Replacement parts for General Electric PDW7300G00WW Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com Water valve is Item 744 in Section 2. Remove the kick plate. Check the over fill switch/float assembly (305, 306, 490 etc. in Section 2). Sometimes the float can get stuck in the up position and the unit thinks that it is already full of water. If it is the float disassemble and clean it. If switch is being activated. Measure across the water valve when it should be filling. If it has 120 volts then either the valve is shot or the filter is clogged. The valve has a screen filter built into it's input fitting. You will probably have to remove the valve to check/clean the screen filter. Do not permanently remove the screen from the valve as it is there to keep crud out of the valve which could hold it open and cause a flood. If it does not have 120 volts. Measure across the valve fill switch combo. They are wired in series. If 120 volts is there odds are that the float switch is toast. To confirm this, remove power/unplug the unit and check the float switch. It should be 0 ohms. In no voltage is present odds are that the control board is toast. Mine fills partially. The fill valve was changed as well as the electronic control. i think the electronic control did not cycle through the calibration cycle which sets the level of the water, I think the actual timing cycle for the valve to be open, as it should have (door was not closed as it should have been when the power was turned on again). Is there any way to reset the control module to repeat the calibration cycle?
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Removing power from the unit for a couple minutes should reset it to factory defaults. |
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Originally Posted by: denman Removing power from the unit for a couple minutes should reset it to factory defaults. I tried that for several days. Same results. It is supposed to start by itself and go through the calibration cycle. I will have to get the model number to see if that is different. It is a profile that is about three years old.
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