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I have owned this range around 18 months. A couple of days ago it stopped heating the oven. Display seems to be fine, but nothing. Not on bake, not on broil. After calling Whirpool and being asked if I had turned power off and on,they left me with nothing more than "you should have purchased an ext. warranty".
I ordered a new thermal fuse from this website and got it in 1 day-WOW! I installed it and ...nothing. I just purchased a new heating element, installed and ....nothing
I don't have any idea at this stage and could sure use some advice. When I hold the cancel button in for 5 sec, it does say F5. F5 translates to a bad door switch, but the remedy is simply turning off the power and turning it back on in 90 seconds..nothing.
Any help is surely appreciated..
Thanks,
Jim
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Originally Posted by: maninthemiddle  I have owned this range around 18 months. A couple of days ago it stopped heating the oven. Display seems to be fine, but nothing. Not on bake, not on broil. After calling Whirpool and being asked if I had turned power off and on,they left me with nothing more than "you should have purchased an ext. warranty".
I ordered a new thermal fuse from this website and got it in 1 day-WOW! I installed it and ...nothing. I just purchased a new heating element, installed and ....nothing
I don't have any idea at this stage and could sure use some advice. When I hold the cancel button in for 5 sec, it does say F5. F5 translates to a bad door switch, but the remedy is simply turning off the power and turning it back on in 90 seconds..nothing.
Any help is surely appreciated..
Thanks,
Jim Jim, Do you have 220 Volts to the range ? Do the top burners work ? When you replaced the element and thermal fuse, did you notice any burnt or damaged wires ? Have you checked the wiring in the control panel ? With both elements not working, I would have to think you have lost the 120 volt common wire, either at the control board, or down to the elements. Let us know what you find. :) :) :)
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I do have a 220 running to the stove. I had the back panel off this morning and did not notice anything wrong with the wiring . Is there something I can look for specifically?
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The top burners do work...
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I just removed the back plate and checked all wiring. Everything appears fine. I even opened the plug casing to make certain the connections were sound...
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Originally Posted by: maninthemiddle I just removed the back plate and checked all wiring. Everything appears fine. I even opened the plug casing to make certain the connections were sound... OK, At the ERC(control) Connector 2 pin 4 (black wire) to chassis ground should read 120 volts. Connector 4 one red wire should have 120 volts to chassis ground. At the bake and broil element(s) remove one wire from terminal, program a bake cycle, and check for 120 volts on the empty terminal and 120 volts on the wire terminal on the wire to chassis ground. Repeat same on broil element and program broil do same voltage test on broil element wire and terminal to chassis ground. No voltage on empty terminal, indicates loss of line voltage from the control. Let us know what you find, :) :) :)
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I don't have any voltage meters...
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Originally Posted by: maninthemiddle I don't have any voltage meters... That's a set back, but, Everything was working fine before, As long as everything looks proper, in the control panel, I think you'll be fine with the new control. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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New Control? Are you sure you have the right person? I don't have a voltage meter.When I press cancel-cance-start, it goes into diagnostoc mode. It's like everything works properly except the oven...it's very frustrating. I appreciate your help and patience.
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Originally Posted by: maninthemiddle New Control? Are you sure you have the right person? I don't have a voltage meter.When I press cancel-cance-start, it goes into diagnostoc mode. It's like everything works properly except the oven...it's very frustrating. I appreciate your help and patience. Jim, Middleman, We are working on a Whirlpool Electric range (RF272LXTD3), correct ? As I stated in my previous posts, you either have a broken wire, loss of one of the power legs. It's not a common occurrence for an oven to loose both elements at the same time. Since you see no visible damage to any of the wiring, either element, and you have 220 volts to the range, and do not have a meter to test voltage and circuits, The next logical step is a bad ERC(clock/control). Part number: AP3996788
 A multi meter may save you some expense, and has other uses around the house, car, and office. Part number: AP3873826
:confused: :confused: :confused:
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