Rank: Member
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heres the good
all fans working
compressor good
beer still cold in extra fridge in garage
the bad
coils behind panel in freezer was an icecube
so from reading looks like its a defrost thermoatat and of adaptive defrost board (thanks GE for no manual cheap timer)
? how can i tell which one is bad ..its a $20 part vs $190 part
oh and tree at neighbors house was blow apart by lightning 4 weeks ago..my garage door openers were fried...? related?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
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Originally Posted by: nicehose  heres the good
all fans working
compressor good
beer still cold in extra fridge in garage
the bad
coils behind panel in freezer was an icecube
so from reading looks like its a defrost thermoatat and of adaptive defrost board (thanks GE for no manual cheap timer)
? how can i tell which one is bad ..its a $20 part vs $190 part
oh and tree at neighbors house was blow apart by lightning 4 weeks ago..my garage door openers were fried...? related? Nicehose, I don't think the lightning strike had anything to do with the refrigerator, but anything is possible !!! There's two ways for you to go, 1) Circuit check the defrost terminator , heater, and wiring, a) D/F heater should check as a closed circuit, will heat if 120 volts applied to the wires. b) D/F thermostat should be a closed circuit below 35 dgrs, and an open circuit if above that(+ or - 10 dgrs). If all checks are OK you can presume you have a bad mother board. 2) Find your Tech. Data sheet, usually behind the kickplate or in the mother board compartment, program into the control test mode, and follow the instructions and tests per the tech sheet. Good Luck, :cool: :cool: :cool:
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,648
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There are four things that will cause this defrost heater (most common), defrost thermostat, evaporator thermistor and the main board. You can check all the components from the main board or you can take them out and do a bench test. If the defrost heater is open or very high resistance replace it. If the defrost thermostat is open anytime (this thermostat will not open until it reaches 140 degrees) replace it. This refrigerator along with most (if not all) GE side-by-side refrigerators made in the last 10 years or so use a 140-30 defrost thermostat which cuts off at 140 degrees and back on at 110 degrees. This is only for a safety back up, meaning if the board fails to cut the defrost heater off the defrost thermostat will cut it off when it reaches 140 degrees. This will never happen unless there is a stuck relay on the board.
If the defrost thermostat and the heater check ok replace the evaporator thermistor. It could still be the main board but this will be very rare for the main board to fail in this way but possible. Even more possible since you had a lighting storm but thermistors are a lot cheaper than the boards so start with that. Take a look at this page it should help GE Refrigerator Repair Guide
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