Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
tamoose  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, September 28, 2010 8:54:45 AM(UTC)
tamoose

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/28/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

After a power outage, my fridge will only click at the motherboard, lights dim when it clicks, no ice or water. Researched other threads, checked for 120 VAC at the J7-9 to J8 on the board, yes it's present. Now, can the remaining parts in the chain, the start relay and the overload, be checked individually? Or can the compressor be checked independently of them? What is the normal resistance for the compressor? What I'm getting at is that I'd prefer not to invest in the overload and/or the relay that I won't be able to return if it turns out the compressor is shot. Being on a pretty tight budget, I'd rather put that $$ toward a new fridge if at all possible. Thanks in advance,

T.
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
Gene  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, September 28, 2010 12:40:08 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

You can perform the compressor test as follows:


Resistance test

1. Disconnect power to unit.
2. Discharge capacitor by shorting across terminals with a resistor for 1 minute.
NOTE: (Some compressors do not have a run capacitor.)
3. Remove leads from compressor terminals.
4. Set ohmmeter to lowest scale.
5. Check for resistance between
Terminals “S” and “C”, start winding
Terminals “R” and “C”, run winding
If either compressor winding reads open (infinite or very high resistance) or
dead short (0 ohms), replace compressor.


Ground test

1. Disconnect power to refrigerator.
2. Discharge capacitor, if present, by shorting terminals through a resistor.
3. Remove compressor leads and use an ohmmeter set on highest scale.
4. Touch one lead to compressor body (clean point of contact) and other probe to each compressor terminal.
If reading is obtained, compressor is grounded and must be replaced.


If both tests are fine - the compressor electrically is good. Most likely the problem is a bad start components.

- The start relay Part number: AP3796508
Part number: AP3796508


- The overload Part number: AP2061482
Part number: AP2061482


Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric GSL25IGREBS Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

P.S. Due to Appliance Parts Pros very friendly return policy you can return any parts, even if they already have been installed.
tamoose  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, September 28, 2010 4:27:11 PM(UTC)
tamoose

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/28/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

Thanks for all the info, Gene. That's just what I needed.
Gene  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, September 28, 2010 5:33:31 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.
Mcstiff  
#5 Posted : Friday, February 11, 2011 11:23:34 PM(UTC)
Mcstiff

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1

My GSH25JFRF CC Just started repetitious clicking tonight and seems to have stopped cooling. No fans, ice, or compressor. I tested the J7-9 to J8 and it has 120v. The compressor values are 6Ω 4.3Ω and 10.8Ω. This suggests that "if those two sets of readings aren't within about 1/2 ohm of each other, then one of the compressor windings is shorted, and if it runs at all, it'll run hot and usually end up short-cycling on its overload protector/"

Is my compressor dead?
Gene  
#6 Posted : Saturday, February 12, 2011 6:43:09 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Originally Posted by: Mcstiff Go to Quoted Post
My GSH25JFRF CC Just started repetitious clicking tonight and seems to have stopped cooling. No fans, ice, or compressor. I tested the J7-9 to J8 and it has 120v. The compressor values are 6Ω 4.3Ω and 10.8Ω. This suggests that "if those two sets of readings aren't within about 1/2 ohm of each other, then one of the compressor windings is shorted, and if it runs at all, it'll run hot and usually end up short-cycling on its overload protector/"

Is my compressor dead?


I do not think your compressor is dead (electrically). According to the tests results you posted possible the problem is a bad compressor overload/start relay, but it is strange why the fans are not working. It can point to a bad main control board too.

Remove the start relay from the compressor and shake it. If it rattles then it is bad.

Perform the fan motors troubleshooting as described in one of our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros...sting-condenser-fan.html

- The overload/start relay Part number: AP3884299
Users browsing this topic
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.