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Replacement parts for DLB2450R models | AppliancePartsPros.com

GE's are a pain to get info on, they like to keep it a secret.
If you do not have a wiring diagram look in the control console, they like to store them in there. Unfortunately I will not be able to get one.

Here is a good link on general dryer repair.
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryers.html
Take a look at 5 GE units
Then 28 Wiring Diagrams
Yours is likely close to older style electric.
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About 3 weeks ago, my timer went so we had to monitor how long our loads were in there.[/COLOR]
Not sure what you mean by "went"
Check that it does not advance in either timed and auto modes.
It gets power through different paths for each of these modes.
In timed dry it gets power directly from the line (Neutral to L1 120 volts) through a set of timer contacts.
In auto modes it gets its power through the heating element when the heater is shut off. The resistor in this line reduces the voltage from 240 to 120 volts.

[COLOR="Blue"]Then - and I suspect it's unrelated - the dryer won't run. It wants to begin spinning when I turn the "start" knob, but will not "catch". I suspect it's a belt?[/COLOR]
Sorry but I do not understand.
What do you mean by "wants to begin spinning"
If it just hums then odds are the drum is jammed or you need a new motor.
If it is just a low hum then it could be the motor is running but the belt has broken but you will still have air flow and heat.
If you mean that it starts to spin and then stops once you release the start switch then it could be the centrifugal switch on the motor.
There are 2 centrifugal switches, they close when the motor gets close to operating speed.
One of them switches out the motor's start winding and also keeps the motro running (it is in parallel with the start switch)
The other switches in the heating element. This is to ensure that the heat does not come on before there is air flow.