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I have read most of the threads concerning no heat on ovens after self-cleaning, but not sure where to go now....Whirlpool gold self-cleaning oven s/n starts with "XJ", will not heat after using self-clean.
I pulled it out, took off back cover and found thermal fuse. Bypassed the fuse by connecting the wires w/ elec tape, and tried to heat again but that does not work.
The pre-heat timer shows up, and the digital read-out looks like it should and beeps when "ready" but there is no heat.
The insulation above and to the left of the fuse was charred a little from the heat, so maybe the door is allowing heat to escape and getting sucked back over the fuse.....?
The door seems like it could shut more than it does, but we don't feel much heat escaping around the top of the door.
Can anyone give me an idea of what else I can try?
:confused:
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I've borrowed a FLUKE 114 meter to help test. Pulled the bake, broil and temp sensor out and tested:
Bake element reading 28.0 ohms
Broiler reading 19.0 ohms
Temp Sensor reading 1.115 k ohms
Can anyone recommend what else i should try testing while I have the meter?
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Here is the tech sheet http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/120226-whirlpool-wall-oven-not-heating.htmlYour readings look good. I would check the power in L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If OK Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! Unfortunately it sounds like the control board is shot as the unit should not come ready without any heat. I found the following confusing as I thought said there was no heat. "The door seems like it could shut more than it does, but we don't feel much heat escaping around the top of the door." |
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Thanks. I took voltage reading on posts on top of stove. White/Black was 120, White/Red was 120, and Black/Red was 241. Does this sound like a problem?
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thanks denman. To explain the part that was confusing earlier....when we shut the oven door, it would be nice it if would close about a half inch more. Its been this way for a few years and has continued to work well, but sometimes the door not closing completely make the light stay on inside oven and I have to hold the door closed a few seconds then let it go. This turns off the light.
In reading other posts, it seemed like maybe the heat is escaping from this small gap and overheating the thermal fuse, but since we've done these tests, it seems like it may need a new control board- by that do you mean the microcomputer?
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Yes, the control board and the microcomputer are the same thing. |
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I purchased the microcomputer and received the control board along with a suppressor board. My oven did not have a suppressor board, but I installed it according to the instructions that came with the part.
Installed the control board and tested a bake......STILL no heat. AAAUUUGGHH. Anybody have an idea what else could be happening?
Also tried a Broil- no heat. What else can I try? (I did reconnect the thermal fuse prior to finishing installation....
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Have been at the lake for a few days so did not see your post. Sorry to hear that the board did not fix the problem. I would have put money on it being the cause. Still does not make sense that the oven will come ready with no heat. I re-read thread and noticed the link for the tech sheet is inncorrect. Here is the proper link http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%204451889.pdfWhen you reinstalled the unit did you check that the thermal fuse was 0 ohms? Could be there is 2 problems. Only other thing I can think of is a bad wire/connection. Also did you program in the cavity size. |
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I did not re-check the thermal fuse- it was 0 ohms when I tested before. I did not program the cavity size so I'll check the instructions to see if there are directions for that, and hopefully test the thermal fuse again tonight.
thank you
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