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apachesurfer  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, August 31, 2010 4:35:54 AM(UTC)
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apachesurfer

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I am trying to help my brother with his wall oven. I am not 100% sure exactly what happened. He and his wife have a child on the way, and the wall oven was installed in their house when they moved in. The wiring on it was not good. There were wires coming from the conduit from the oven that had wire nuts going out to some romex for the house wiring just kind of laying all around under the cabinet. He thought he would fix the safety hazard, and put them in a junction box.

The problem was that the wires were extended from the oven and not the right colors, can't say I blame him since there was no sign that they weren't the actual wires coming from the oven. He didn't inspect it until he had it all hooked back up and flipped the breaker for it, and then the breaker popped back out almost immediately. He inspected it and found out the true colors of the wires and he had wired the ground to the red wire, and red to the ground.

Now that he has it wired correctly, it will not turn on at all. Nothing on the clock, no light when you open the door. There is current coming to the junction box where it is wired together. He came to me, but I didn't know what to tell him. Is it possible that he can just replace the thermal fuse, or would the control panel be bad?

Thanks in advance.

I found this page here: Replacement parts for General Electric JRP14GT1BB Electric range | AppliancePartsPros.com but I can't find anything helpful, such as the fuse or it's location.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, August 31, 2010 5:54:25 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for JRP14GT models | AppliancePartsPros.com

As usual I cannot find any tech info, GE likes to keep that info a secret.

I see 2 limit switches in the unit but I cannot say what they are for.
One is probably for the fan.
The other may be for the element/s or the control board.

Remove power from the unit and check them with a meter, both should be 0 ohms (I think).

Odds are high that the control board is toast but check other things first.

First check that all wiring in the unit is OK.

Then, I would check that you are getting the correct power to the unit.
I am assuming this is a 3 wire hookup.
The clock will probably use half the line 120 while the elements will use the full 240.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage.
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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