Originally Posted by: apparkx 
During an absence from home, the ice maker jammed (my problem) but then water continued to flow and flooded the inside of the freezer and ran out on the floor and into the basement. At some point the water stopped. After cleaning out the ice, including removing, cleaning, and replacing the ice maker, water would not dispense from the fountain, or come into the ice-maker. The ice-maker will go through its cycle, but no water comes in. If I manually put water in it, it will make and dispense. On advice obtained on-line, and locally, and studying the wiring diagram, I ordered and replaced the control board in the door. No change -- same symptoms and still no water. (There was a short burst of water from the fountain - 1 sec - after replacing the board) I am now assuming the water valve or valves are bad. How can I determine if this is the case for sure? Any help welcome.
I'm pretty sure you have a burnt out solenoid on your water valves(that unit has 2 valves) if you need to replace the valve(s), I would replace them both, as insurence.
They can be circuit tested and checked for VAC to the valve from the dispenser or icemaker.
The valves are located on the back of the unit in the compressor compartment.
The Black wire is power from the water dispenser.
The tan wire is power from the icemaker.
And the white wires are the neutral side off the power supply.
(You will need a multimeter that reads voltage and resistance)
You should do this one solenoid at a time, so you don't get lost.
(it's a little crowded in there).
Remove the black wire from the solenoid terminal and check for 500 to 1000 ohms across the terminals, re connect the black wire and put the meter leads across the terminals, and have someone select water and press the actuator switch, you should have 120 VAC at the solenoid.
If you have the VAC,at both solenoids, you have a bad water valve.
If you have NO vac, you have a broken or loose wire in the harness, and will need to trace it back to the control board.
Ice maker fill valve, is tested the same way, only the tan wire is the circuit, and you will need to run a test on the icemaker control module.
For the VAC test to the icemaker fill valve, you will need a insulated jumper wire.
With the white front cover off the icemaker assembly, you will insert one bare end into the H opening and the other end into the T opening,once the large gear starts to move , remove the jumper wire, go to the fill valve and check tan to white for 120 VAC at the solenoids.
If the VAC is present (you only have 7 or 8 seconds) you have a bad fill valve solenoid.
If VAC is not present, you have a broken wire in the harness or a bad icemaker.
Part number: AP4009066
