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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team 
It's still most likely a seaping fill valve seat in the valve, especially if you're in a hard water area.
Thank you Joe! I will order a valve.
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Originally Posted by: mbkerk Thank you Joe! I will order a valve. Great, You'll be up and running properly in no time. Let us know how it goes. Thanks, :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Great,
You'll be up and running properly in no time.
Let us know how it goes.
Thanks,
:) :) :) Well... new valve on, and still overflowing! I adjusted the fill time down about 1/2 turn and we will see if that helps! I guess I have a spare valve now!
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Originally Posted by: mbkerk Well... new valve on, and still overflowing! I adjusted the fill time down about 1/2 turn and we will see if that helps!
I guess I have a spare valve now! MB, Did you do the other checks first, filter, water tubes, etc ? Adjusting the water level, may help, but also make sure the ice maker is level in both directions, as well. Did someone adjust the water level to begin with ? :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team MB,
Did you do the other checks first, filter, water tubes, etc ?
Adjusting the water level, may help, but also make sure the ice maker is level in both directions, as well. Did someone adjust the water level to begin with ?
1st... setting the water timer did not help. Still a trail of ice from the mold to the storage bin from over night. I do not have a filter in this refrigerator. I put the "dummy plate" in it from day one. I do have whole house filtration, but that has been installed since the refrigerator was new. What am I missing with the water tubes? Seems to be plenty of water getting into the unit. One thing I have not checked is that the refrigerator is level. The cubes seem to be the same size from the front to the back of the ice maker, and I have no reason to believe that anything changed with my home / floor moving any, but I will check tomorrow. FYI... the water is dripping out near the front of the mold, right behind the control box. Right side as you look at it. Any more advice you can give me would be appreciated.
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This is one of many problems with GE refrigerators. My Monogram built in fridge has been sweating in the cabinet it was enclosed in for 12 years and has filled my home with toxic mold spores. The bill to decontaminate my home is $20,000 and GE is refusing to pay. I am living in a hotel and can not go home until my home is cleaned. GE is a dirty dog company.
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Originally Posted by: mbkerk 1st... setting the water timer did not help. Still a trail of ice from the mold to the storage bin from over night.
I do not have a filter in this refrigerator. I put the "dummy plate" in it from day one. I do have whole house filtration, but that has been installed since the refrigerator was new.
What am I missing with the water tubes? Seems to be plenty of water getting into the unit.
One thing I have not checked is that the refrigerator is level. The cubes seem to be the same size from the front to the back of the ice maker, and I have no reason to believe that anything changed with my home / floor moving any, but I will check tomorrow.
FYI... the water is dripping out near the front of the mold, right behind the control box. Right side as you look at it.
Any more advice you can give me would be appreciated. MB, There is no "seal" between the mold and the control head, If the icemaker is lower if the frontor overfilling, water will drip out the front of the icemaker. You may want to reduce the water level adjustment, one more complete revolution, You'll have a slightly smaller cube, but may solve the issue. This is a bit hard to explain but, Even though you may have good water flow and plenty of pressure to the dispenser and ice maker, if there is air in the system, the fill valve will not react properly, and air is a non condensable gas, and creates a bubble in the system. It is possible to have a loose connection or hairline crack in a tube, and not have a leak, but when the water flows through the system, it can suck air into the tubes,and create a "bubble" and cause a drip/overfill situation, until the air equalizes and the valve seats properly. :) :) :)
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I never did figure out what is going on with this ice maker. It still overflows, but I have it shut down now as we do not use a lot of ice in the winter. I have been filling the bin with store bought ice when we need some, and I think my wife is getting used to the better ice!
I sure wish I could figure out what happened to make this thing go haywire! It worked just fine for 8 years! Nothing has changed! Like I posted earlier, the "obvious" problem to me was the valve seeping, but the new valve made no difference. I checked all of the other things mentioned, and nothing is wrong.
I do remember reading somewhere online about a trace that goes bad on a board somewhere on the icemaker control board... possibly one that a wiper rubs on when it goes through it's cycle, but I can't find the page I once saw! If I remember right, the solution there was to replace the ice maker. Would love to experiment with this. If anyone has ever attempted a repair of this type, please let me know!
Maybe I'll re-visit this sometime!
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Continued... I just found this elsewhere online. I have to investigate... Quote:The copper plate mounted on the back side of the main drive gear will get arced up something fierce and start sticking. This causes overfill. You can remove the main drive gear and clean this plate up but you might break the shaft. The water adjustment is on the right hand side about the 3 o'clock position. It moves the probe a hair one way or the other and the more copper this probe hits the more water comes in. No more than a quarter turn either way is all you should do.
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I think I need this part...
W10190935
Joe, You have it in stock here! Any chance of a little better deal on it since I replaced a water valve (ordered here) that I did not need to?
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