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ArchArrow123  
#11 Posted : Tuesday, September 14, 2010 7:49:29 AM(UTC)
ArchArrow123

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Joe,
The new relay board arrived and I put it in this weekend. This board did have the J4 connector and a few other minor differences. Plugged it all in, checked connections and powered it up. No FC code! But all's not well. First thing I noticed was the fan was running. This is the fan that's just behind the back right burner. Couldn't figure how to get it to turn off. Second thing I notice was the oven light was on. I hit the oven light button and it didn't turn off. The button made the audible 'ding' sound but didn't turn the light off. Then I hit the fan button on the control board and it didn't work and also didn't make the audible 'ding'. The oven worked fine over the weekend. Because I couldn't get the fan to turn off I just unplugged it since I don't believe with the original relay panel that we had for over 15 yrs that the fan ever ran when the oven was turned off. Used the oven several times this weekend and my wife said that I might not get kicked out of the house after all. Then yesterday morning she left me an email saying that the alarm on the oven started going off again. She hit the 'clear' button and it stopped. It didn't indicate FC. She had used the oven in the morning and it worked fine. So for right now I would like to know if there's a way to fix the fan and light issue and we'll see if the oven continues to work.
Joe / APP Team  
#12 Posted : Tuesday, September 14, 2010 9:29:06 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: ArchArrow123 Go to Quoted Post
Joe,
The new relay board arrived and I put it in this weekend. This board did have the J4 connector and a few other minor differences. Plugged it all in, checked connections and powered it up. No FC code! But all's not well. First thing I noticed was the fan was running. This is the fan that's just behind the back right burner. Couldn't figure how to get it to turn off. Second thing I notice was the oven light was on. I hit the oven light button and it didn't turn off. The button made the audible 'ding' sound but didn't turn the light off. Then I hit the fan button on the control board and it didn't work and also didn't make the audible 'ding'. The oven worked fine over the weekend. Because I couldn't get the fan to turn off I just unplugged it since I don't believe with the original relay panel that we had for over 15 yrs that the fan ever ran when the oven was turned off. Used the oven several times this weekend and my wife said that I might not get kicked out of the house after all. Then yesterday morning she left me an email saying that the alarm on the oven started going off again. She hit the 'clear' button and it stopped. It didn't indicate FC. She had used the oven in the morning and it worked fine. So for right now I would like to know if there's a way to fix the fan and light issue and we'll see if the oven continues to work.


Arch,

This is crazy,

But at least we don't have a "FC" code (yet).

I don't know where to start .

I'm thinking all kinds of possibilities,

Lets start simple,

When you pressed the fan button on the control panel, did you notice the downdraft fan motor come on ? or go off when you pressed it again ? it should have.

That's what the J4 connector does, feed from the input (button) goes to the PRB, from the PRB to the D/D relay board(through the J4 harness) to the D/D motor.

It has nothing to do with the cooling fan.

The Cooling fan is controlled through the resistance of the oven temp. sensor.
When the sensor is reading 1700 ohms(or more) for an extended period, the board automatically closes the circuit to the cooling fan and turns it on. and it should run, until the resistance drops below 1600 ohms,even if the oven is off, and you remove the cooked article.

The oven light is control by the switch mounted on the front of the oven in the S/C door latch assembly.
When the switch is open(when the door is closed)and closes when the door is openned and the PRB closes the oven light relay and the bulb glows.

I'm wanderring if :

You've got a stuck or bad oven light switch or wire.

Since both the cooling fan and the oven light wires are brown, do you have them on the wrong PRB terminals ?

I don't think I sent you a copy of the Service Manual or if you had one, but here is a copy for reference, so you can varify wiring locations and operation of the unit and components.

Let me know what you find,
:cool: :cool:
l

http://servicematters.co...ibrary/docs/16010191.pdf
GARY-L  
#13 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 8:31:50 PM(UTC)
GARY-L

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Exact Same Issues With Same Stove. I've Replaced Clock Control....membrane Switch....and Both Relays In Back....$700 Worth Of Fun With No Success.

Has Anyone Solved The Mystery? What's The Answer?
Joe / APP Team  
#14 Posted : Thursday, December 30, 2010 6:52:32 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: GARY-L Go to Quoted Post
Exact Same Issues With Same Stove. I've Replaced Clock Control....membrane Switch....and Both Relays In Back....$700 Worth Of Fun With No Success.

Has Anyone Solved The Mystery? What's The Answer?



Gary,

Did you replace the J2 harness and install additional Ferrite bead(s) on the harness at the new relay board,

Part number: AP4008522
Part number: AP4008522


Part number: AP4089703
Part number: AP4089703


Like Archarrow, in the previous posts ?

Did you clean up he board connections with contact cleaner or alcohol and use dielectric grease on the connections ?

Also check all the connections at both ends for loose connections, especially at the terminal block(where the power cord or conduit wires are attached ?

Good Luck,


:cool: :cool: :cool:
GARY-L  
#15 Posted : Monday, January 3, 2011 11:05:34 AM(UTC)
GARY-L

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Joe...

Thank You.

Did Archarrow123 Find Success In His Repair Efforts? It Seems That Many Have The Exact Same Issues With This Stove....yet The Threads End Prior To Describing Any Successful Fixes...

Gary
Joe / APP Team  
#16 Posted : Monday, January 3, 2011 2:25:03 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: GARY-L Go to Quoted Post
Joe...

Thank You.

Did Archarrow123 Find Success In His Repair Efforts? It Seems That Many Have The Exact Same Issues With This Stove....yet The Threads End Prior To Describing Any Successful Fixes...

Gary


Gary,

I honestly don't recall, if he responded or not.

But, having worked on that unit from it's inception, The parts and repairs I reccomended were factory service procedures, provided we have proper voltage supply, and proper and tight connections to the terminal block.

After several months of similar code problems, it was discoverred that there was a high possibility of EMI or RF interference on the system, and the ferrite beads (filters) solved the issue.

The procedure I reccomended to you, and Archarrow, was the same procedure I used in the field as a repair technician.

I'm pretty sure , if you do the cleaning and the dielectric grease, install the harness and the ferrite beads on the harnesses at the terminal block, you'll be OK.

Thanks,
:cool: :cool: :cool:
GARY-L  
#17 Posted : Monday, January 3, 2011 3:06:53 PM(UTC)
GARY-L

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Thanks Joe...

I Will Order Parts And Let You Know.

Gary
Joe / APP Team  
#18 Posted : Tuesday, January 4, 2011 5:04:32 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: GARY-L Go to Quoted Post
Thanks Joe...

I Will Order Parts And Let You Know.

Gary



Gary,

Great,

Good deal, I'll keep an eye out for your update,

We'd really appreciate it.

Thanks,
:cool: :cool: :cool:
GARY-L  
#19 Posted : Tuesday, January 25, 2011 2:04:56 PM(UTC)
GARY-L

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Yo Joe...

Sorry To Be Slow With The Reply, But J2 Harness Was On Back Order.

I Did Finally Receive J2, And I Installed With Beads....cleaned And Inspected All Connections...still No Go!

After All The Parts, Labor, And Frustration...decided To Cut My Losses And Improvise. I Wired Around The Relay Boards And Cut Switches In...one Each For The Oven Light And Oven Cooling Fan, As They Had Stayed On Continuosly. I Also Wired From The Power Block Through A 2-Speed Switch To Get The Downdraft Fan To Work. Rube-goldbergish, But Works, And The Switches Are Hidden Inside A Cupboard Door On The Island.

Thank You For All Your Time And Advice. I Do Honestly Feel There Is A Design Flaw In These Units As There Are Too Many With The Exact Symptoms. Reminds Me Of My Mitsubishi 52" Dlp ($3600)...got 5 Yrs Out Of It By Babying It Until A Power Spike Finished It Off...the Permanent "mitsubishi Fast Blinking Green Light Of Death". Google It....good Read.

Thanks
Gary
Joe / APP Team  
#20 Posted : Wednesday, January 26, 2011 5:24:27 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: GARY-L Go to Quoted Post
Yo Joe...

Sorry To Be Slow With The Reply, But J2 Harness Was On Back Order.

I Did Finally Receive J2, And I Installed With Beads....cleaned And Inspected All Connections...still No Go!

After All The Parts, Labor, And Frustration...decided To Cut My Losses And Improvise. I Wired Around The Relay Boards And Cut Switches In...one Each For The Oven Light And Oven Cooling Fan, As They Had Stayed On Continuosly. I Also Wired From The Power Block Through A 2-Speed Switch To Get The Downdraft Fan To Work. Rube-goldbergish, But Works, And The Switches Are Hidden Inside A Cupboard Door On The Island.

Thank You For All Your Time And Advice. I Do Honestly Feel There Is A Design Flaw In These Units As There Are Too Many With The Exact Symptoms. Reminds Me Of My Mitsubishi 52" Dlp ($3600)...got 5 Yrs Out Of It By Babying It Until A Power Spike Finished It Off...the Permanent "mitsubishi Fast Blinking Green Light Of Death". Google It....good Read.

Thanks
Gary


Gary,

I'm glad you were able to improvise and adapt things to work.

Just sorry it took you so much extra effort.

I didn't have that much of a problem, and that was a very popular product, where I worked.

As for the "Green light of Death", I've read that article, very interesting and a good read. I decided to get my 15 year old TV repaired, instead of buying new.

Thanks Again,

Good Luck,

:) :) :)
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