Arch,

This is crazy,

But at least we don't have a "FC" code (yet).

I don't know where to start .

I'm thinking all kinds of possibilities,

Lets start simple,

When you pressed the fan button on the control panel, did you notice the downdraft fan motor come on ? or go off when you pressed it again ? it should have.

That's what the J4 connector does, feed from the input (button) goes to the PRB, from the PRB to the D/D relay board(through the J4 harness) to the D/D motor.

It has nothing to do with the cooling fan.

The Cooling fan is controlled through the resistance of the oven temp. sensor.
When the sensor is reading 1700 ohms(or more) for an extended period, the board automatically closes the circuit to the cooling fan and turns it on. and it should run, until the resistance drops below 1600 ohms,even if the oven is off, and you remove the cooked article.

The oven light is control by the switch mounted on the front of the oven in the S/C door latch assembly.
When the switch is open(when the door is closed)and closes when the door is openned and the PRB closes the oven light relay and the bulb glows.

I'm wanderring if :

You've got a stuck or bad oven light switch or wire.

Since both the cooling fan and the oven light wires are brown, do you have them on the wrong PRB terminals ?

I don't think I sent you a copy of the Service Manual or if you had one, but here is a copy for reference, so you can varify wiring locations and operation of the unit and components.

Let me know what you find,
:cool: :cool:
l

http://servicematters.co...ibrary/docs/16010191.pdf

Gary,

Did you replace the J2 harness and install additional Ferrite bead(s) on the harness at the new relay board,

Part number: AP4008522

Gary,

I honestly don't recall, if he responded or not.

But, having worked on that unit from it's inception, The parts and repairs I reccomended were factory service procedures, provided we have proper voltage supply, and proper and tight connections to the terminal block.

After several months of similar code problems, it was discoverred that there was a high possibility of EMI or RF interference on the system, and the ferrite beads (filters) solved the issue.

The procedure I reccomended to you, and Archarrow, was the same procedure I used in the field as a repair technician.

I'm pretty sure , if you do the cleaning and the dielectric grease, install the harness and the ferrite beads on the harnesses at the terminal block, you'll be OK.

Thanks,
:cool: :cool: :cool:

Gary,

Great,

Good deal, I'll keep an eye out for your update,

We'd really appreciate it.

Thanks,
:cool: :cool: :cool:

Gary,

I'm glad you were able to improvise and adapt things to work.

Just sorry it took you so much extra effort.

I didn't have that much of a problem, and that was a very popular product, where I worked.

As for the "Green light of Death", I've read that article, very interesting and a good read. I decided to get my 15 year old TV repaired, instead of buying new.

Thanks Again,

Good Luck,

:) :) :)