Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
GlennH  
#1 Posted : Sunday, August 15, 2010 10:19:22 AM(UTC)
GlennH

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/15/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

Noticed yesterday the fridge seemed too warm, my first thought was door that the door was left open a little or didn't seal correctly.

I cleaned the seal and the seal mating surface and tried not to access the fridge for several hours. When I re-checked it, it seemed warmer than before.

I opened the freezer and looked for signs of frost or icing but didn't find any, also the air seemed to be flowing out of the vents toward the top just fine.

I did notice that the damper door in the top of the freezer that leads to the fridge area was fully closed and that seems to me to be a wrong position if the fridge is warm. So I positioned a pencil in a way to hold the damper open, and now the fridge is cooling down again.

So I'm pretty sure that I'm on to something, but I have no idea how that damper is controlled. Is there a motor or solenoid that could be bad? Is there something in the temperature control system that might be broken? Any help or diagrams that could help me troubleshoot this would be greatly appreciated.
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
GlennH  
#2 Posted : Sunday, August 15, 2010 2:33:52 PM(UTC)
GlennH

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/15/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

The pencil fix didn't work for long, it went back to warming up. So I emptied the freezer section and took off the evaporator cover. And of course it was completely iced up. Here's what I found:

The defrost thermostat looked like the potting compound had pushed up out of the metal but it tested closed so I don't think it was necessarily bad, but it didn't look right.

The heater tested OK (I think) about 22 Ohms, certainly not open like I would expect if it were bad, but 5 amps is higher than I would have expected, but then I don't do this for a living so it doesn't much matter.

I couldn't find a "Defrost Timer" to test, so I assumed it was a function of the control board, or "Mother board" if you will. The control board didn't have any obviously burned spots on it, so I just tested the defrost relay by putting my Ohmmeter across the LINE and DEFR pins and energizing the relay with 12 volts. (After finding the protection diode and noting it's polarity.) It worked fine.

I completely deiced the evaporator, and put everything back together and turned it back on. Don't think my food will last much longer in the coolers. :-)


The only thing at this point that made sense to me is that the defrost thermostat is perhaps intermittent. I removed it and connected the two leads together until I receive the new one that I ordered. We'll see how it goes from there.
Users browsing this topic
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.