Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/14/2008(UTC)
Posts: 8
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Ok. Thanks a ton for all the help. I just ordered the part and I'm hoping that does the trick.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/13/2008(UTC)
Posts: 3,097
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You're welcome. That should do it! While you have the back off you may want to vacuum out the interior and clean around the fan to help frevent lint fires. It's suggested to do that once per year.
Nat
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/14/2008(UTC)
Posts: 8
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Ok, I received the part mentioned above and thought I'd test continuity before installing. The results are the same as the old part. The outer leads have continuity, however, the inner leads don't. I installed the part and there is no difference. I still have no heat. Where to next?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/17/2008(UTC)
Posts: 51
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have you checked the thermal fuse on back of dryer i think the part youre looking at is the cycling thermostat check fuse first
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/13/2008(UTC)
Posts: 3,097
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I believe, that if the thermal fuse is out, the machine will not turn on at all.
If it wasn't the cycling thermostat, I'd still have to say it's a power issue. double check your power as mentioned in pervious post. If there is 120 volts going to the motor the dryer WILL run, but it will not heat.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/14/2008(UTC)
Posts: 8
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Voltage at terminal block reads 238v all the way across. 120v from red to white, 118v from black to white.
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