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i tried searching and was not able to see anything specific to this model and issue, so any help you guys can give is definitely appreciated.
all of a sudden this morning it is not working any more. i actually had it somewhat apart earlier this week repairing a leaky water pump. i used some clear temp resistant silicone type automotive sealer on the housing and it seemed to be holding up pretty well through the 4 or 5 loads i've run through it. anyways, it only fills up with water. after moving the selector through all the modes/cycles, it definitely only fills up. i was running a smaller load, and selected a larger load size and it filled up more. i took the cabinet off to see if it might be something obvious, and it appears not. i unplugged/plugged it and i heard a click...then nothing. i have been reading a little bit, and saw a thread that mentioned some evidence of mechanical failure. there is a band of oil/grease around the inside of the cabinet starting about 6 or 8 inches above the bottom. it was there when i had it apart a few days ago too.
i am interested in knowing how to determine exactly what has failed, so i can find out how much of a job it will be to remove/replace it. i have found a rebuilt kenmore with a 90 day replacement warranty for $149. i need to know which will be the best route for a working washing machine.
thanks in advance.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/8/2008(UTC)
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wow...48 views and not even a single reply.
i am finding it hard to believe that i have the appliance repair experts stumped...or even the novices for that matter. anyways, for all the spectators that care to follow along, i jumped around the lid switch and was able to get it to TRY to spin. i could hear the timer ticking, and i could hear the motor start up, but no spinning, then...silence. seems like something might be froze up between the motor and the tub.
we're not talking sasquatch here, it shouldn't be that hard to confirm this. can someone do it? am i on the right track?
how about someone's $.02, even if its irrelevant.......
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Remove the cabinet, remove the pump (by the way it is not repairable and could cause the existing problem too), bypass the lid switch and see if it'll work. Remove the motor and check the motor drive coupling (#13 on the break down diagram). Post the results. Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool washer Model TAWX700JQ1 similar to yours. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/8/2008(UTC)
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thanks gene. i am planning on messing with it this weekend sometime. that pump...its the weirdest thing. the washer had been leaking, so i took the cabinet off and saw that the water was co[ming from the pump...the hoses were all dry except for what dripped off the pump. i saw water seeping out if it, from the center of the side that faces out when it is clipped in place, on the unit. there was a bunch of little holes, that some gray stuff had oozed out of and set up...perhaps some kind of sealer. anyways, all the pictures of these pumps i have seen, here and elsewhere, there's NO sealant/silicone/? there, they all look like they are molded seamlessly. i bought this thing new in '05, and it has never been apart before. there's something fishy going on around here.
all i did was let some clear hi temp sealant dry on that part of the pump body...to stop the seeping water...i wonder if the thing seized up and is making the motor overheat/cut off because its bogged down. i am hesitant to tear into things i have never worked on...i learned that one the hard way. here though, i know what i am looking for and i have a better understanding too...the proof's in the puddin' though, isn't it...
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/16/2008(UTC)
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All of the Whirlpool line top loaders with a visible lid switch are well known for lid switch failier.Most users have a tendancy to sometimes slam or drop the lid accidently.Then,once the lid switch brakes,The washer will fill,agitate until the last 4 minutes of the wash cycle then STOP !! I have the door switch from another unit I use to test a faulty one and wow! It works again.I then either splice the two wires(not recomended if you have curious kids!) and over ride it making it so it never stops with the lid open or buy a new lid switch($6.99 @ Sears) and replace the old one.I can't begin to tell you how many people have replaced these particular types with new machines because (Mr.fly by night) the local do all,moey hungry fix it man claimed their transmission needed to be replaced.Used appliance stores love these units and have made fortunes on them.
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