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ice dispensor electronic board and solenoid burned out identically after replacement
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Joined: 7/20/2010(UTC) Posts: 6
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Replaced the control board and soleniod for the ice maker dispensor and it burned out the same way. Board has resistor, chip and power transitor burned as well as the door chute solenoid cooked. At first I thought it may be water hit the board so I wrapped the new one tight in plastic. Made no difference. Anyone have an idea what would cause the solenoid to engage and burn out as well as the board, of course when no-one was around? Mike
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Joined: 3/15/2010(UTC) Posts: 213
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You have a short in the system somewhere. Could be the micro switch that gets actuated when you depress the lever, has a short. Could be any number of things, though this is an odd problem. I dont mean to sound like a spammer but you really should seek help from a local refrigerator repair service, as this will have to be inspected personally to diagnose.
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Originally Posted by: FridgeDoctor You have a short in the system somewhere. Could be the micro switch that gets actuated when you depress the lever, has a short. Could be any number of things, though this is an odd problem. I dont mean to sound like a spammer but you really should seek help from a local refrigerator repair service, as this will have to be inspected personally to diagnose. I changed the micro switch as well. Have'nt replaced the user interface. Can't imagine how that could burn a control board out.
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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If you have a meter, remove power and check for a shorted fountain heater between red/white wire and white wire. If ok, I would check between each control board pin and the white pin for a short to ground. I know it is hard to check these connector pins, may need to use an alligator clip and a thin piece of wire.
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Originally Posted by: richappy If you have a meter, remove power and check for a shorted fountain heater between red/white wire and white wire. If ok, I would check between each control board pin and the white pin for a short to ground. I know it is hard to check these connector pins, may need to use an alligator clip and a thin piece of wire. I have 4.6 ohms between rd/wh and wh. I have 2.4 ohms pk auger motor and wh. I have 32 ohms between vio cube solenoid and wh. And I have 502 ohms water dispenser valve. Thanks for the help. Mike
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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The resistance for the fountain heater is way too low, should be well over 400 ohms. Might want to just check further for a spot that looks damaged to confirm.
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Joined: 7/20/2010(UTC) Posts: 6
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Originally Posted by: richappy The resistance for the fountain heater is way too low, should be well over 400 ohms. Might want to just check further for a spot that looks damaged to confirm. Went back and rechecked. Operator problem. 4.8 kohms Sorry 4800 ohms. The meter is still a bit new to me. Thanks, Mike
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/20/2010(UTC) Posts: 6
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Originally Posted by: richappy The resistance for the fountain heater is way too low, should be well over 400 ohms. Might want to just check further for a spot that looks damaged to confirm. Let me tell you what i did after the board and solenoid burned outafter the second time. I thought maybe somehow a drop of water was getting to the control board. So I wrapped it in a bag and sealed it very well in duct tape. It still burned out with the solenoid cooked. Mike
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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I had a Maytag fridg with the same problem, gave up on it. You would need a special "megger" to find the problem. Low voltage testing will not find the problem and even then, the wires are hidden and impossible to get to. One possability is the touch board is shorted. These solenoids will burn out if activated for a long time. The last one I worked on, I replaced the touch board, but it made no difference. However, if you find the problem, let us know.
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ice dispensor electronic board and solenoid burned out identically after replacement
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