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At first, the fridge would go into defrost and not come back on. So I replaced the defrost timer. Then the freezer section stayed too warm so I replaced the thermostat. Now, no matter where I set the thermostat (I barely have it on the lowest setting - between "off" and "1" it will sometimes freeze everything in the fresh food section.
I read another post here where you recommend replacing the Damper Control, but when I went to the parts page for my model it shows a damper clip but no damper control so I assume this refrigerator doesn't have that option.
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Originally Posted by: tom26  At first, the fridge would go into defrost and not come back on. So I replaced the defrost timer. Then the freezer section stayed too warm so I replaced the thermostat. Now, no matter where I set the thermostat (I barely have it on the lowest setting - between "off" and "1" it will sometimes freeze everything in the fresh food section.
I read another post here where you recommend replacing the Damper Control, but when I went to the parts page for my model it shows a damper clip but no damper control so I assume this refrigerator doesn't have that option. I reccomend you check the air return cover & tunnel located on the left side wall of the fresh food compartment.It may be blocked by an article on the shelf, or obstructed . yes you do have a damper assembly, in this unit it is named a diffuser, the controls are located in the control assembly and consists of several components including :cam(ap2986561) bearing(ap2936731) clip(ap3039559) pivot arm(ap2936733) if one or any of these components are broken or misaligned it will disrupt the air flow and reduce the cooling effect in the fresh food compartment
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Someone else recommended checking the air openings and I had already done that. There is no food obstructing them. It would seem to me that if they were blocked, the cold food side would be too warm because the air couldn't get from the freezer into the refrigeration side.
There are two air openings. One is at the top and one is at the bottom of the left side wall of the refrigerator section. Air pumps into the refrigerated section from the top, and it "seems" to be returning air at the vent on the bottom. (It's hard to tell by feeling--the top one really pushes the air into the refrigerator no doubt, but the bottom one you can tell air is moving but not really which direction). I removed the vent cover on the bottom & there was nothing there obstruction air flow. I visually checked the top and there didn't seem to be aything in there either.
When I adjust the control marked "freezer" from "colder" to "warmer" I don't notice the air that is coming into the top of the refrigerator section changing velocity at all. So maybe when I was installing the thermostat I did something that misaligned that top air control.
Just an aside, could the bi metal thermostat have anything to do with this; it's the only thing I haven't replaced inside the fridge.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: tom26 Someone else recommended checking the air openings and I had already done that. There is no food obstructing them. It would seem to me that if they were blocked, the cold food side would be too warm because the air couldn't get from the freezer into the refrigeration side.
There are two air openings. One is at the top and one is at the bottom of the left side wall of the refrigerator section. Air pumps into the refrigerated section from the top, and it "seems" to be returning air at the vent on the bottom. (It's hard to tell by feeling--the top one really pushes the air into the refrigerator no doubt, but the bottom one you can tell air is moving but not really which direction). I removed the vent cover on the bottom & there was nothing there obstruction air flow. I visually checked the top and there didn't seem to be aything in there either.
When I adjust the control marked "freezer" from "colder" to "warmer" I don't notice the air that is coming into the top of the refrigerator section changing velocity at all. So maybe when I was installing the thermostat I did something that misaligned that top air control.
Just an aside, could the bi metal thermostat have anything to do with this; it's the only thing I haven't replaced inside the fridge. It is doubtfull that the defrost bi metal is the cause of you problem. Yes you are correct the lower louvred cover and tunnel is the air return system. your air is injected at the top air tunnel into the fresh food compartment and is returned to the freezer compartment through the retun cover and tunnel and re chilled and re introduced to the fresh food compartment through the diffuser at the opening in the top of the wall. There is always air entering through the diffuser, it never completely closes,however you should be able to feel a difference in the air flow when adjusting the control higher or lower. As this is a manual control i reccomend you check the linkage ,cam and other components for misalignment or breakage causing the cover door to malfunction and not close down (reduce the air flow)at the warmer setting of your control knob.
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Make sure you put the new cold control sensing wire exactly where the old one was.
If ok, measure the freezer temperature and post.
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I took the covers off the damper and discovered that when installing the cold control thermostat I had indeed dislocated the control knob from the damper assembly and that was a matter of just a minute to reconnect it.
But as I had the covers off the damper, I also noticed that the metal wire extending out of the cold control thermostat did not go all the way to the end of the clear plastic tubing that it is threaded into. In fact, it stopped just before it got to the actual damper opening. There was about 4" of bare wire that was coiled up around the control knob itself because I thought I had fed that wire in as far as it would go (I didn't have any instructions).
I realized that you have to completely remove that clear plastic tube and then you can feed the thermostat wire to the end of the tube which runs around the inside of the damper opening.
After reconnecting the damper control and running the thermostat wire all the way, the problem seems to be solved now. I'm still monitoring the temperature & the refrigerator section now seems to be running on the warm side (about 43-45 degrees) with the control control in the middle "3" setting and the damper also in the mid setting between "warmer" and "colder". It might be that it's in defrost right now so I'll check it again in an hour or so to see. I realize that 45 is not a problem, but I like it closer to 41 because I work in the food business and they tell us not to allow cold food to warm above 41 degrees to slow bacteria growth.
You guys are amazing that you give this advice for free. And your prompt answers really saved me! I was about to go out and purchase a refrigerator that I really can't afford right now but thanks to you I believe the problem is solved.
I've book marked your site and will recommend you to anyone who is looking for parts or help with repair of their appliances. Your prices are great and I have several friends who do their own repairs. I'll be sure everyone knows about your web site.
Thank you again.
Tom:):):):):)
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Tom26: You made my day, I appreciate your resonse, many times we just don't even know if the problem was fixed! Good job.
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