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Gene  
#11 Posted : Friday, June 25, 2010 4:03:16 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Pull the ice make out but keep its harness plugged it. Remove the ice maker head cover and check the voltage between the "L" & "N" check points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.

If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H" to run the motor. The bottom of the ice maker should get hot. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.

Post the results.


Gene.

libecki086  
#12 Posted : Tuesday, June 29, 2010 8:33:58 PM(UTC)
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Hi, following this one as I have the same symptoms. Voltage between "L" & "N" is only 33VAC. For what it's worth I can intermittently get through the rest of the test jumping "T" & "H" (motor, heat and water), I suppose the low voltage is tied to the random success. Where does that point? Thanks, Pete
Gene  
#13 Posted : Wednesday, June 30, 2010 12:07:55 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Pete,

What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?

Gene.
libecki086  
#14 Posted : Wednesday, June 30, 2010 5:41:46 PM(UTC)
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Hi Gene, Model # KSRP22FNSS00 Serial # SR3759163 Thanks, Pete
Gene  
#15 Posted : Thursday, July 1, 2010 9:58:48 AM(UTC)
Gene

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Pete,

Remove the ice maker and unplug its wire harness. Check the voltage between the black and white wires at the plug.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSRP22FNSS00 Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
libecki086  
#16 Posted : Friday, July 2, 2010 3:21:08 PM(UTC)
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I have the same 33VAC with icemaker unplugged. 120V at the wall, must be a problem with harness or connections, I don't see anything else in the path. Thanks for your help Gene, I'll post my findings.
libecki086  
#17 Posted : Tuesday, July 6, 2010 9:20:26 PM(UTC)
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Wanted to close the loop on my fix and thank Gene and the forum. As I traced the harness through the cabinet I noted the fan in the freezer compartment appeared to have worn through an insulating paper between the fan base and the switch or thermostat below it. I put a piece of rubber between the two and moved on. Moving to the connections in the top of the fridge compartment I pulled the white molex connector apart and found 94VAC between black and white wires. Reconnecting that piece I now had 94 volts at the connected ice maker where I had previously seen 33 VAC. The ice maker has been working for 2 days now, I would offer either there was indeed some sort of short at the freezer fan or more likely reseating the molex connector where it enters the fridge compartment ceiling made for a better connection. Thanks again Gene. --Pete
Gene  
#18 Posted : Wednesday, July 7, 2010 5:46:24 PM(UTC)
Gene

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You are welcome Pete. I'm glad you were able to diagnose and fix it.

Good job!

Thank you for the feed back and good luck with your refrigerator.

Gene.
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