I have replaced the Thermal Cutoff, High-Limit Thermostat, Thermal Fuse and Thermistor. The heating element is always on??? I have asked in past postings about which wire needed to be connected to which terminal and was told it doesn't matter. With the heating element staying on, the thermal fuse is blowing every 5-6 loads. It is my understanding that the heating element should cycle on and off depending on the settings. I selected air dry and the element still comes on??? Any help would be greatly appreicated.

V/R

Brian A.

Thanks for the help. The element checks out at 10.1 ohms and the connectors are open (If I'm reading the meter correctly). I checked the troubleshooting sheet you included and all indications point to the electronic control board. Before I purchase, is there anything else you can think of for the element staying on continously?

Again, Thanks for your help!

V/R

BA

Sounds like a stuck heater relay on the control board. The key here is it will not drop heater power when you select fluff, no heat.

Replace the board.

I know that this is an old thread, but it helped me to fix my gew9250pw0 whirlpool dryer myself.
On the assumption that it was the board, I took out the board, and tested the relay that is clearly marked for the heating element. The relay clearly tested bad. The relay was a potter and brumsfield T9AS1D22-12. I found in on newark.com, a company that i've ordered from before, but it was on backorder for several months. So i ended up buying it at digikey.com instead. however both sites list it as a tyco connectivity T9AS1D22-12.
www.newark.com part number 92F3733
TE CONNECTIVITY / POTTER & BRUMFIELD|T9AS1D22-12|POWER RELAY SPST-NO 12VDC, 30A | Newark.com

Electronic Components Distributor | DigiKey Corp. | US Home Page part number PB304-ND
Digi-Key - PB304-ND (Manufacturer - T9AS1D22-12)

I ordered 2 and still was less than $17.00 for both with shipping, and everything works fine since.
I should note that there is a rubbery coating on the PCB that will have to be scraped off the contacts before testing or soldering.

Thanks to all the previous posters that helped me save over $200 this time around between parts and labor.