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kirkdj  
#11 Posted : Friday, May 1, 2009 3:44:54 PM(UTC)
kirkdj

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It does the same thing, each time it's pressed....it won't stay on though
kirkdj  
#12 Posted : Saturday, May 2, 2009 1:55:04 PM(UTC)
kirkdj

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Originally Posted by: kirkdj Go to Quoted Post
It does the same thing, each time it's pressed....it won't stay on though


OK, first I tried the diagnostic rapid advanced feature, I can get it to go into this option, after starting the cycle, pressed high-temp scrub, then energy saver, two times in that sequence, then pressed Start to advance and it will advance through the cycles. This does not seem to show a problem. But after advancing through the cycles, I had to power it down for 30 mins., then I did run it on through a complete cycle and it does complete the cycle (including heating the water), then I open it, clean light goes out, close it and try to start another cycle and it will not, must unplug it, wait 30 mins or so, and then it'll do one cycle over again and repeat.
I got the keypad off, figured out what you were talking about with the polarity, found the pin schedule on my print and checked every button with meter on x1K, they all peg out the ohm meter when pressing the buttons and all release when I let go......it appears all the buttons work and are not stuck. All the led lights worked during the cycle I ran too.
So from your earlier reply, it appears there is an error during the cycle and that's why I must power down the board after every cycle. We have had some problems with the soap dispenser not opening sometimes, everything else seems to be working, the pump, solenoid, heating element, drain pump.........I checked all the items on the dishwasher circuits on the prints, and everything ohmed out almost exactly as the print says, even the dispenser.....but sometimes that dispenser door will not open, but during these test cycles the dispenser is opening.
What's next to check? I hate to buy another board, have two now and both do the same thing. :confused:
denman  
#13 Posted : Tuesday, May 5, 2009 5:04:29 AM(UTC)
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What's next to check? I hate to buy another board, have two now and both do the same thing.
I am stumped as everything checks OK but for some reason the board is not resetting. It is like it is not running the timer to the end of the cycle, may be waiting for a signal/voltage from some thing and is not receiving it.
I agree that getting another board will just cost you dollars and I doubt it would fix the problem.

Could it be that the door switch is not opening?

When it does wash, it does a good job and runs normally correct?
If yes, I would be very temped to do a jiggery pokery and wire it up the same as a plastic tub unit. That way when the door is opened it should rest the control board by removing power to it totally.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kirkdj  
#14 Posted : Sunday, June 14, 2009 9:00:10 AM(UTC)
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OK, I went back and performed the cheks all again, formed a chart to keep things straight like you suggested. I believe I found a problem with the ID02 (I believe this is a diode ?). With the pos. lead on P1-1 and checking P1-12, the meter pegs out. When checking all of the diodes, this is the only instance in which the ohm meter moves. I checked all these diodes and push buttons with switching the pos. and neg. leads and I kept a chart. All the push buttons work correctly per the schematic. Also all the ID00 through ID03 get nothing, excet that ID02. It pegs the meter with red lead on P1-1 and it gets zero when switching the leads.

So is this my problem, a bad ID02 diode in the keypad? :confused:

If so, to replace I assume I order the part, p/n 8269132 Black, whcih is the black plactic piece the keypad is glued to? I hope I don't hace to glue the new keypad on......I don't know how good that'll look and stay on? Please reply with your opinion quickly, I hope this is the problem?
denman  
#15 Posted : Wednesday, June 17, 2009 5:15:50 AM(UTC)
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Also all the ID00 through ID03 get nothing, excet that ID02. It pegs the meter with red lead on P1-1 and it gets zero when switching the leads.
So is this my problem, a bad ID02 diode in the keypad?
Seems like your positive lead is not actually the positive meter's voltage but it really does not matter.ID02 seems OK. Should conduct in one direction and not the other. But the other diodes are not correct.

If so, to replace I assume I order the part, p/n 8269132 Black, whcih is the black plactic piece the keypad is glued to? I hope I don't hace to glue the new keypad on......I don't know how good that'll look and stay on?

Sorry could not find this part number.
I believe the part you want is AP3133651 from the AppliancePartsPro link I included earlier.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kirkdj  
#16 Posted : Wednesday, June 17, 2009 3:28:17 PM(UTC)
kirkdj

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Also all the ID00 through ID03 get nothing, excet that ID02. It pegs the meter with red lead on P1-1 and it gets zero when switching the leads.
So is this my problem, a bad ID02 diode in the keypad?
Seems like your positive lead is not actually the positive meter's voltage but it really does not matter.ID02 seems OK. Should conduct in one direction and not the other. But the other diodes are not correct.

If so, to replace I assume I order the part, p/n 8269132 Black, whcih is the black plactic piece the keypad is glued to? I hope I don't hace to glue the new keypad on......I don't know how good that'll look and stay on?
Sorry could not find this part number.
I believe the part you want is AP3133651 from the AppliancePartsPro link I included earlier.


Great, finally I hope we have it diagnosed!! I'll order the part and post the results later........Thanks in advance Denman, you've been a great help with this problem....I think you are right on with the keypad issue....I'll let you know how it turns out....TTYL :)
Carolyn48  
#17 Posted : Friday, June 19, 2009 5:14:30 PM(UTC)
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How do you repair a stuck key? The "rinse only" key is flashing over and over and I think the "normal" key is the one that is stuck, because it is the only one we ever use.
Carolyn48  
#18 Posted : Friday, June 19, 2009 5:18:07 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: kirkdj Go to Quoted Post
I was looking over the diagnostics section and saw this:
"

STUCK KEY:
If the control detects that a key is stuck in the depressed position,
dishwasher operation will be suspended and the control will flash the
light for that key until the condition is corrected. If a key without a light is
stuck or multiple keys are stuck, the control will flash the light for the Rinse Only/Quick Rinse key."


I did notice that when pressing the High-Temp Scrub, it will flash 3 times and then go out...........does this mean anything? :confused:


How do you repair a stuck key?
kirkdj  
#19 Posted : Friday, June 19, 2009 5:20:38 PM(UTC)
kirkdj

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Originally Posted by: Carolyn48 Go to Quoted Post
How do you repair a stuck key? The "rinse only" key is flashing over and over and I think the "normal" key is the one that is stuck, because it is the only one we ever use.


I know in the schematic instructions it references troubleshooting for a stuck key.....I found mine behind the bottom panel after I took it off, it's taped in behind there if you've never removed it before......other than that, you'll have to wait for Denman to reply....good luck :)
kirkdj  
#20 Posted : Friday, June 19, 2009 5:23:05 PM(UTC)
kirkdj

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Originally Posted by: kirkdj Go to Quoted Post
I know in the schematic instructions it references troubleshooting for a stuck key.....I found mine behind the bottom panel after I took it off, it's taped in behind there if you've never removed it before......other than that, you'll have to wait for Denman to reply....good luck :)



you could use the same troubleshooting technique I did and find out which key is stuck
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