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frankm17  
#1 Posted : Monday, June 15, 2009 12:39:07 PM(UTC)
frankm17

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Joined: 6/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 8

Hi, I am new to this forum and it looks like there's a lot of good info here. That being said, can anyone tell me if this sounds like something I can fix myself?

I have a JennAir JMW9530DAB and the light will not go off. I thought at first that this was just a short or open somewhere and was going to ignore it by removing the bulb, then when I tried a self-clean cycle it told me the door was open even though it was not. (The self-clean has worked in the past). So, I would suppose that some door sensor is shorted/open and the oven thinks the door is always open which is why the light is always on.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

Frank
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Dan O.  
#2 Posted : Monday, June 15, 2009 1:20:42 PM(UTC)
Dan O.

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/31/2009(UTC)
Posts: 647

Quote:
I suppose that some door sensor is shorted/open and the oven thinks the door is always open which is why the light is always on.

That is very likely. Most ovens have a switch which is manually activated by the door. That switch on your model may be malfunctioning.

I don't see the switch illustrated in the parts list although there looks to be a rod (picture here) in the control console area that activates it. Try looking for one end of that rod or a little 'knob' sticking out of the oven frame (maybe near the top?) that the door would touch up against when it closed. That would be one end of the rod and the switch would be at the opposite end, inside the appliance.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

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frankm17  
#3 Posted : Monday, June 15, 2009 1:43:51 PM(UTC)
frankm17

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Joined: 6/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 8

Thanks for the info. I did find the rod that the door pushes in on when closed, made sure it was still pushed in, but that didn't do anything. Are you saying I should trace the wires from that rod back to the switch and then replace the switch? I haven't been able to find any wiring diagrams, etc. of this oven. I am comfortable with wiring/electronics though having done a fair amount of electronic assembly in the past.

Frank
Dan O.  
#4 Posted : Monday, June 15, 2009 6:45:06 PM(UTC)
Dan O.

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/31/2009(UTC)
Posts: 647

Quote:
Are you saying I should trace the wires from that rod back to the switch

Trace the rod to the switch, yes.

Quote:
and then replace the switch?

If it is defective. It could just be a mechanical failure of the rod system, switch mounting, etc.

Quote:
I haven't been able to find any wiring diagrams

There should have been one in or on the appliance when it left the factory. Often they are inside the control console. There is also a copy with the unit's parts list (see the following link). I don't know how readable that one will be though.

LINK > Jenn-Air JMW9530DAB Parts List

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~
frankm17  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, June 16, 2009 8:26:12 AM(UTC)
frankm17

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Joined: 6/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 8

OK I see now - the rod goes right into the switch which is then wired to the control panel. So, it should just be a matter of replacing the switch? I think this would be part 16 (Switch - door lock p/n AP4099261) on the "control panels and internal controls" section of the parts list you linked to. The oven installer must have taken any parts lists, etc., with him as I don't have anything other than the user's guide, but I did find this service manual online:

http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16010312.pdf

Again, thank you so much Dan!!

-Frank
Dan O.  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, June 16, 2009 9:20:20 AM(UTC)
Dan O.

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/31/2009(UTC)
Posts: 647

Quote:
the rod goes right into the switch which is then wired to the control panel.

The rod would push against the switch activating it. That switch should be wired into the appliance's wiring leading to the light bulb.

Quote:
So, it should just be a matter of replacing the switch?

Only if the switch itself was the problem and not the activation method.

Quote:
I think this would be part 16 (Switch - door lock p/n AP4099261)

The wiring diagram with the parts list shows two switches, one for the light (with 2-terminals) and one for the locking mechanism (with 3-terminals). I looked as best as I could at the parts list but didn't see the light switch illustrated or listed although it (and the lock switch) are shown on that wiring diagram.

Quote:
The oven installer must have taken any parts lists, etc., with him

Parts lists are not usually supplied with the appliance. The wiring diagram is often inside the control panel but can be other places in or on the appliance as well.

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~
frankm17  
#7 Posted : Thursday, June 18, 2009 9:57:00 AM(UTC)
frankm17

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 8

Thanks to your help I fixed this problem! Once I was able to get the cover off I saw that the switch which the rod engaged had lost one of the two mounting screws and the other screw was loose, so the rod was not engaging the switch. Once I put the missing screw back (fortunately it was laying right next to the switch) and tightened them both down, it worked as expected.

Thanks again for saving me $$ on a repair bill!

Frank
Dan O.  
#8 Posted : Thursday, June 18, 2009 1:40:30 PM(UTC)
Dan O.

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/31/2009(UTC)
Posts: 647

Quote:
Once I put the missing screw back and tightened them both down, it worked as expected.

Glad to hear it. Thanks for the follow up.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

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