Hi Teager

With your machine in either of the two auto modes the control thermostat is closed when the drying begins, which shuts off current to the timer motor and causes it to not run. As the dryer air heats up, the thermostat opens, which allows current to go to the timer motor and for it to run. The control thermostat is not involved in the timer in Timed Mode, so if the control thermostat is not working correctly that is why you could have the timer advancing in Timed Mode and not in Auto mode.

Assuming that your timer does not advance in either auto mode, the likely problem is that your control thermostat is not opening, which causes the dryer to continue drying as the timer motor will not advance the timer.

It is possible that your timer is at fault, but I suggest you replace the control thermostat, here is the part, and see if that does not fix your problem.

Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FLSE72GCS0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Here is a wiring diagram. Note it is for a FLSE72GCSC.
Your Model Number seems to be short a couple characters.
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...df/Webster/134134500.pdf

A grounded element will also cause your problem.
Unplug the unit
Remove both wires from the heating element.
Check it for resistance, should be approximately 12 ohms.
Then check each side to the case/frame, should be an open (infinite ohms)

Sometimes you can see where the element is touching the case, may even be broken. Sometimes you can see where it has sagged and touched the case once it heated up re: telltale weld mark.
If you set the unit to NO HEAT and you still have heat then odds are high that this is your problem.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

As the dyer heated up and ran for a while it never did open up, so it would be apparent as you said I need a new one.
If the Control Thermostat does not open then the unit should start cycling using the HiLimit Thermostat. I would expect the unit to overheat if set on the High Heat setting but it may not with no clothes in it.

My only question now is that when I checked both terminals on the thermostat to ground there was perfect continuity.
If you mean 0 ohms by perfect continuity then the unit should have blown the breaker. You have to remove both wires from the thermostat to check them to ground/frame otherwise you may read an alternate/parallel circuit path. Also your meter has to be set on the most sensitive scale re: 200 ohms, if you try to read on a higher scale lets say 20 kilohms it will show 0 but you may actually have 20 or 40 ohms due to the readability of that scale.

If these interupt a hot to the timer would this continuity indicate a short to ground and a problem beyond the thermostat ?
I think you have to do a little more trouble shooting to confirm your diagnosis before ordering a part.

Here are a couple service manuals which should come in handy replacing it.
I think the first one is the closest match to your unit.
http://frigidaireservicetips.com/pdfs/488_3.pdf
http://frigidaireservicetips.co...thTumbleActionWasher.pdf

I do not see a problem with running it but am reluctant to recommend this as I do not know how the unit is wired in etc.


I would recommend you open it up before ordering your parts, then you can check the other parts in the unit for wear (belt, drum supports, seals, idler wheel etc.). Might as well replace what is required while you have it opened up. Give the interior including the blower wheel a good cleaning. Use a high temp grease to re-lube the rear drum bearing.

Also a good idea to clean/check your vent system.