Following instructions read on previous posts to this board, we've replaced the thermal fuse and the thermostat on out 14 yr old Kitchen Aid. Until now, this appliance has never given us any trouble at all.

The dryer stopped running in the middle of the cycle and would not turn back on, the light comes on, the timer works and you can hear a sound from the start button, but even after replacing the above parts, it won't start. My wife said recently that she thought the dryer wasn't heating as well as it used to.

What else do you think I should check; what do you think may be the problem?

Thanks,
Tom

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KEYE760WWH1 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%203394611.pdf

Which thermal fuse did you replace?
There are two of them one for the heater and one for the motor you want the one on the blower case. Easiest to check this with a meter.

Unplug the unit and check for continuity.
Set the unit to timed dry as this is the simplest set up.
Start circuit path is

NEUTRAL , DOOR SWITCH , TIMER SWITCH 4 T/W , DRIVE MOTOR Start and Main windings , THERMAL FUSE 196 degrees , PUSH TO START contacts R2/R1 , TIMER contacts BU/BK , LINE 1

Note Push TO Start must be pushed to give 0 ohms.

Does the motor buzz when you try top start it?
IF the motor buzzes when you try to start is could be the drum is jammed or the motor is shot.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.