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Joined: 6/16/2009(UTC) Posts: 2
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I have a Kenmore side-by-side refrigerator with the ice bin in the door. (Will get model number later, I am currently at work and don't have access to it). I got home the other day to find that my ice maker had stopped making ice. It had a small piece stuck in the ejector, but I removed that, and it doesn't appear that any damage was done by that. The tray is not refilling with water. I do get water thru the door. I read the forums here last night and found some suggestions that I tried:
- I checked the rubber fill tube to see if it was blocked with ice, and it is not. I have had this problem before so it was the first thing I did. Is this the only part prone to freezing?
- The filter is only a few months old. I am going to buy a new one and try that tonight, but the water in the door is not that slow, so I don't think it's that. I've gone longer in the past and the ice maker still produced ice even when the flow to the door was poor.
- I removed the ice maker from the freezer and inspected it. It does not seem to have anything broken as far as gears.
- I tried pouring water in the tray manually. It froze overnight (10 hours) but never ejected.
- I checked the optics on the door and they seem to be working fine (based on what I read here). When I block the path, the red light blinks twice, then pauses, then repeats. When it is unblocked, the light is solid.
- I tried turning the fridge off (both by the button on the inside, and by unplugging it) to see if that "reset" it. I figured it might be confused and a power cycle might get it back. I also tried turning off the ice maker then back on to see if that worked. So far, still no ice.
I am mechanically inclined but have a hard time figuring out where some of the things are that people refer to in here, such as the water inlet valve. Is that in the back? I have a tiny kitchen and it's hard to get the fridge out.
Should I try defrosting the whole thing, or does this seem like a part gone bad? :confused:
Thanks, Jason
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/13/2009(UTC) Posts: 18
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If you filled the mold with water, it froze and never ejected, I would change the icemaker. Also the icemaker sends voltage to the fill valve (yes fill valve is in the back). Further proof the icemaker needs changing. Likely the motor inside the icemaker itself is not turning
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/16/2009(UTC) Posts: 2
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Thanks for the quick response. I also read today to try checking for voltage at the test points, so I'm going to try that tonight. I don't hear any noise coming from the ice maker at all, so it does make sense that it could be the module. Are there any other controls that could be bad? Is there a controller somewhere or is that all inside the ice maker itself? I assume that if I get voltage at the test points that points to the ice maker itself, but if I test the ice maker and don't get voltage, where should I look from there?
Thanks
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/13/2009(UTC) Posts: 18
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No other controls. There is a 4 wire harness that supplies voltage to the IM. You could check there or the test points on the IM module. If you are getting power... change the IM.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/16/2009(UTC) Posts: 1
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I have a similar problem with my Kenmore Refrigerator ice maker. The model is five years old (model#106.56572400), and just recently started to have problems. I just changed the filter the first of March this year. I replaced the ice maker and the inlet valve below in the back of the unit (double solenoid). It worked for twenty four hours then stopped. I voltage tested the points on the module and they had readings. Again, the ice maker is new. I'm still not getting any ice production. I have ice in the mod tray, but it won't cycle. I disconnected the water line in the back and blew into the line, having my wife observe the door side. It appears to be clear with no obstruction. Is it possible the new ice maker is bad? Any good ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/25/2009(UTC) Posts: 3
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I have a side by side Whirlpool, Model # GD5NHAXMB00. The ice maker stopped working and I called Sears. The tech wanted $326 to replace the ice maker control module. I declined and paid the $68 service call then ordered the part from this website. Took 15 minutes to replace. Very simple. Disconnect the power supply, either unplug or unscrew three screws holding the on/off switch that controls the icemaker. Unplug the wiring harness. The whole assembly slides out, kinda of tricky, just disconnect the wiring harness in the back. Pop off the cover on the side, remove three screws and simply replace the module. Put it back together and should work fine.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/20/2013(UTC) Posts: 1
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if i have water to door, can water still be frozen at ice maker? tx
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