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The pc control board was replaced by a service tech and the problem remained. the freezer frosts up and stops air flow through the baffle to the refrigerator. The freezer will not defrost. After the service tech finished and gave up, I took the shroud off the control board and noticed that a plastic connector with a brown wire and a pink wire was hanging with no connection. these wires go to the bimetal switch on the evaporator coils and also to the defrost element. There is no obvious place to plug the connector into under the shroud in the refrigerator control section. What do these wires connect to? I think that they should connect to a power source or timer to run the defrost element but I can't see where they connect.
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSCS25FJSS00 | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the tech sheet https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%202199974.pdfWhat do these wires connect to? Nothing. They are there as a service aid. If you try to force a defrost using the diagnostics and the thermostat is open, you put a short/jumper across this connector and now the heater should heat up. Could also be used to check the thermostat. If the coils are frozen up and you try run the defrost but the element does not heat up, unplug the unit, install a jumper in this plug. Plug the unit in and try to force a defrost again, if the element heats up then the defrost thermostat needs replacing. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  Here are your parts Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSCS25FJSS00 | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the tech sheet https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%202199974.pdfWhat do these wires connect to? Nothing. They are there as a service aid. If you try to force a defrost using the diagnostics and the thermostat is open, you put a short/jumper across this connector and now the heater should heat up. Could also be used to check the thermostat. If the coils are frozen up and you try run the defrost but the element does not heat up, unplug the unit, install a jumper in this plug. Plug the unit in and try to force a defrost again, if the element heats up then the defrost thermostat needs replacing. denman, thanks for the wiring diagram and other info on the dummy plug. The defrost element does not warm up even with the jumper in place. I know that the element is good because i wired 110 directly to it and it warmed right up. I put the fridge into test mode and the defrost element still will not warm up. As I mentioned, I have replaced the pc control board twice and the problem persists. Is there any chance that one of the thermistors is the culprit?
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I would doubt that the thermistor would cause a defrost problem especially since the unit seems to operate OK till the evaporator coils ice up.
You may have a broken wire somewhere in the circuit.
You will need a meter to find out if this is the cause.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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