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The evaporator fan in my refrigerator GSS22JEMAWW stopped working.
1) I disconnected the evaporator fan harness and measured resistance between wires leading to the fan:
white and red: 1.5K
white and yellow: 8.2K
Does this mean that the fan motor is OK?
2) Then I connected the evaporator fan harness back and disconnected J2 harness connector from the main control board. After that I measured resistance between the white wire pin 3 and the red wire pin 8. As I understand, correct resistance should be between 1.5K and 3K, but in my case it was only 0.76K.
3) Next I disconnected the evaporator fan harness again and measured the same resistance as in step (2) above. It read 1.49K. I thought that in such a case the ohm meter should read open.
Does it follow from the steps (2) and (3) above that there is a problem with wiring harness between the control board and the fan?
Any help on how to proceed from this point would be greatly appreciated.
George
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Test the fan for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. If the fan does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
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Thank you for your quick response, woodchuckie, I really appreciate it! I don't have much experience with appliances so I am going to ask for some clarification. I've seen an advice similar to yours at Freezer Repair Guide: How to Test the Evaporator Fan - ACME HOW TO.com, but they also mention that the fan is connected by two or three wires. My fan is connected by four wires, one of which is ground. The other three wires are white, red and yellow. It would be helpful if you could please clarify which terminal pairs I should test for continuity: white-red, white-yellow, or red-yellow. You also mentioned that the reading should be zero ohms, and if it is not then the fan should be replaced. I found a post on this forum http://forum.appliancepartspros...or-test-replacement.html which says almost the opposite: if the resistance between white to red and white to yellow terminals is less than 1K ohm then the fan motor is shorted and should be replaced. I also found Technical Service Guide for my refrigerator model which says that resistance between the white and red terminals should be between 1.5 and 3K ohm. And if this reading is open or shorted, the fan motor should be replaced. (see attached diagram) As a result I'm confused. One source says that the fan should be replaced if reading between terminals is not zero (continuity test). The second source says that the fan should be replaced if the readings between white & red and white & yellow is less than 1K ohm. The third source says that the motor should be replaced if the reading is open or shorted. I mentioned in my original post that I measured resistance between white & red (1.5K ohm) and white & yellow (8.2K ohm) fan motor terminals. According to your advice, the motor is broken. According to the second and third advices the motor seems to be fine. As I said, I don't have much experience with appliances and I'm confused. If you could please clarify this for me I'd really appreciate it. Thank you again for your time! George GeorgeS attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Advanced Member
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george this is cut and dry, no need for the wiring diagram of the space shuttle. take the back off the freezer section, and kill the power to the refrigerator. take the two wires off the fan motor, and put the ends of your meter leads in each end of the wire terminal. make sure they are not hitting metal, and then plug in the refrigerator. if you are not getting 120 volts, replace the mother board. if you are getting 120 volts replace the motor. cut and dry. no scematic or shuttle engineering. tom
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for your response, Tom! As I said, I don't have much experience with this and it is getting more confusing. My evaporator fan has 4 wires. Which two should I get off? Also, both the shuttle diagram and Gene's post http://forum.appliancepartspros...or-test-replacement.html talk only about 8 and 12-13V DC, they don't mention 120 volts. Did you mean 12 volts? I will disconnect the evaporator fan harness again and measure voltage on white & red and white & yellow pairs. If I don't get 12V and 8V respectively, I'll replace the board. I will assume that the evaporator fan is fine because of 1.5K and 8.2K resistance between the fan motor terminal pairs. This looks in agreement with the shuttle diagram and Gene's post. Would it be correct assumption? Thank you again for your response. I think I'm getting there. I'll post the results. George.
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I unplugged the refrigerator, disconnected the evaporator fan wiring harness, hair dried the evaporator coils, plugged the fridge back and measured the voltage as Gene suggested http://forum.appliancepartspros...or-test-replacement.html : Between white & red: 13.4V DC Between white & yellow: zero I will be replacing the control board. I'm still not sure if I need to replace the evaporator fan motor. As I mentioned in the earlier posts, the resistance between white & red terminals is 1.5K ohm, between white & yellow terminals is 8.2K ohm. I could not find information on what the right resistance should be. According to Gene's post, it should be more than 1K ohm. According to the shuttle diagram, it should be 1.5-3K ohm between white and red, but I'm not sure what the value should be between white and yellow. 8.2K ohm seems slightly high, but I'm not an expert in this area and I could not find any information on the Internet for my fan motor model (WR60X10185). I would really appreciate it if someone could help me with this. I'm just afraid that if I replace the board and the motor is broken, it can kill the new board. I hope it will not happen because higher resistance between white and yellow means lower load on the board, but I'm not an expert to tell for sure. I'm just hoping that if I replace the board and get the correct voltage, and the motor is still not running, I'll also replace the motor. Thanks a lot in advance for sharing your expertise, George
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Rank: Advanced Member
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its lift off!!!!!!!!!! yes i did mean 12 dc volts, but i did not have a wiring diagram in front of me to see that it has 4 wires. i will tell you this, i replace mother boards on that product on a continual basis, and only just a few fan motors. george if the motor is bad too, and you replace the mother board first, it won't harm the motherboard. tom
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for your helpful reply, Tom! It is very good news that a bad motor will not harm the motherboard. I will post on my progress when the board arrives. I will also consider a surge protector as you recommended on your website.
Thanks gain,
George
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/1/2008(UTC)
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Alot of people do not realize that the appliance's have electronics, and they should put them on surge protectors. They just equate there computer as electronic, and everyone has them on surge protectors on them. Good Luck. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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Rank: Member
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Thank you, Tom. I just wanted to return to the space shuttle diagram I posted earlier. That diagram is for more advanced models with digital displays. My model is a simpler knob-controlled model, and it has a different diagram (attached). The steps on the diagram almost match the steps in Gene's post http://forum.appliancepartspros...or-test-replacement.html The only extra step on the diagram is measuring voltage on the board itself. I got 13.4V DC between pins 3 and 8 (white & red) and zero between pins 3 and 4 (white & yellow). Now I am more confident that the fan motor and the wiring between the board and the motor are not damaged. The diagram also warns that a shorted fan motor will damage the new board, but according to my measurements the motor is not shorted, so everything should be fine. Thanks again for all your help, George. GeorgeS attached the following image(s):
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