Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13
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I have a big problem with my ancient, but faithful, Maytag washer.
When the problem started I had a load going and in the spin cycle I heard loud screeching and the smell of rubber burning.
I replaced the belts and the brake and the motor would cut out (overheat) at the beginning of the spin cycle.
I replaced the motor, but the motor still cuts out due to overheat. I replaced the mounting stem and boot along with a tub bearing kit and the motor still overheats after about 10 seconds into the spin cycle. The agitation cycle works perfectly and has strong action, the motor never cuts out in the wash cycle.
The pulley turns easily both directions by hand. To check out the pump I took both belts off and put the pump belt back on, the washer drains as it should. With both belts on I have noticed there is no pump action before the motor cuts out in the spin cycle. I tried running the washer with only the main drive belt hooked up, with no water in the machine and the motor still overheats and shuts down as the spin cycle starts.
A couple times the washer would go into the spin cycle and run all the way through, one thing I have noticed is as the spin basket speeds up it reaches a speed where there is a click at the motor and the spin increases in speed. When this happens, when I get that click, the washer will complete the spin cycle. This has happened only a couple time in about 7 or 8 tries.
I am at a loss, I have watched nearly every repair video on this site as well as YouTube and I can't figure this out. I feel I am close and I don't want to give up because this has been a great machine (first repair in over 30 years) plus I have so much money in it in parts I don't want to give up now.
I need help!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13
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To continue, I have now disassembled the washer again, took the spin tub out, took the spanner nut off the stem, turned the pulley by hand and it turned easily in both directions. I put the nut back on hand tight with the spanner wrench, gave it one light tap with a hammer and put in the set screw then ran the machine. The washer ran in the spin cycle without a problem. I next put the spin tub back in taking caution it was centered and put the nut back on and ran the spin cycle, again no problem. I ran it through 6 or 8 complete spin cycles and it worked every time. I then ran the washer on the lowest water level, it worked perfectly in the agitation cycle, but when it came time to spin the motor overheated before the spin tub came up to speed.
I am thinking perhaps the centrifugal switch in the new motor might not be set correctly. I will try to troubleshoot the switch.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/5/2022(UTC)
Posts: 0
Location: Athens, Ohio
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I am having the exact same problem -new pump, new motor new belts. All bearings turn smoothly. Pump will work fine if tub belt is off. Tub spins and motor doesn't overheat if pump belt is off. Paid $125 to a serviceman who could not find the problem either. Need help!
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0  Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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I'm also having same problem, replaced belts, brake, motor, motor springs and glide. jason.d.clevenger@gmail.com I found my problem was, I was using an extension cord. I was dropping voltage on the extension cord causing the motor to be under powered. Edited by user Tuesday, November 15, 2022 9:23:22 AM(UTC)
| Reason: Solved Problem
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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I know it's been way too long but I had a similar problem and it was the new belts that caused it for me. They were just a little smaller than the old belts and caused the motor to become over loaded
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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I have had the same issue, and I recently found out the answer. The OEM belts are oil-impregnated and have a very specific profile that allows the drive shaft to slip slightly on startup. The water pump belt usually works fine, but the drive shaft belt does not have enough play if it’s not OEM. I buy plenty of after-market parts for various machines, and his is one of those cases where OEM is the only way to go if you want to keep your motor working.
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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I having the exact same problem with a speed queen LWN series and it looking like the exact same cause,baught a aftermarket belt and motor overheats now on spin.I think I'm gonna oil the belt and slacken the tensioner.
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Putting oil on a V belt is not a good idea. Belts for washers and dryers are intended to run dry unless they are in an oil bath which does happen in some industrial applications but not in a washer and dryer application.
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