Hi All,

The LG DLEX5170V (~2012 electric dryer with steam option) turns on normally, but won't start, no noise, just a couple clicks from the control panel (which makes me suspect that the relays are fine). I found the circuit diagram hidden behind the control panel, and so far everything has checked out.

When extracting the error codes, I get: d03 lr:E5 U01
which of course are not listed *anywhere*, calling LG support is useless, and they discontinued their SMART Diagnostics.

Does anyone know what these error codes mean?

Checked the usual suspects: both thermal switches, sensor towards the rear manifold, door switch seems ok (I Ohmed it, light turns on, control panel knows when the door is open), belt is fine (i.e. did not trigger the micro switch, and I doubt that the micro switch has gone bad since they are made to endure many cycles), resistance to the heater coils seems ok (forget exactly, around 20-40 Ohm, as measured through the connectors from the control panel). Did not check the moisture sensors, though cycling through the control panel diagnostics did register high. Diagnostics was supposed to start the motor, but that never happened.

I suspect that either the control panel or the motor is bad, or possible the fuse that's embedded somewhere near the motor is blown.

Suggestions welcome.

Thanks, JV

Replying to my own posting for general education and in the hope it helps someone.

The short story: everything checks out, still does not run. Suspect control board, or one of the relays on the control board bad. Not sure it’s worth spending the 100-250$ for a 12 year old machine.

The biggest help was the circuit diagram and the diagnostic procedure that was stuck to the INSIDE of the control panel.

Taking apart the unit is not so bad, follow the YouTube videos, though it does assume you have some dexterity. It includes taking out the drum from the front, which is not a big deal, but before you do, check the thermistors through the outlet and the knock out panel on the side of the unit. It’s cramped but doable. Wear long sleeves, lots of sharp edges.

When you disassemble, keep track of the screws because they are all different.

All thermistors (2 on the side, one against the front plenum) showed continuity
The temp sensor with the two red wires coming out of the rear of the front plenum measured within range 11kOhm
All witches (door, Idler) are ok
Centrifugal switch on the motor was not triggered and moved back forth ok
Ohmed the motor on the terminals on the motor (blue and brown, blue and white) showed a couple ohms and jumped up and down as I rotated the motor which means the commutators are working. To do that, I removed the white connector attached to the motor. I did not live wire it as some YouTube videos show (it’s a bit dicey).
Moisture sensor showed it’s connected by Ohming it (20k or higher setting) and touching the sensor with my hand
Heating elements measured 20 and 40 Ohms, which is twice as much as the specs, but one YouTuber remarked that the specs are wrong.
Drum rotates freely

So here we are. I know a lot more about dryers now, wish I could’ve fixed it.

Anyone need parts? :-/

The saga continues.

Bought a used controller board on eBay , but it ended up only being the front display panel, and not the circuit board on the back that has the relays that is suspect. They are sandwiched together and can be disassembled. So that did not help.

So I decided to do the scary thing and jump the motor using the following procedure:

?si=x7OJ92ArauoSU0Pn

You can actually do this without taking the unit apart if you take to exhaust tube and side knock out off. Don’t electrocute yourself.

In my case, the motor started straight up.

So the only thing left is the control panel.

The saga continues.

Bought a used controller board on eBay , but it ended up only being the front display panel, and not the circuit board on the back that has the relays that is suspect. They are sandwiched together and can be disassembled. So that did not help.

So I decided to do the scary thing and jump the motor using the following procedure:

?si=x7OJ92ArauoSU0Pn

You can actually do this without taking the unit apart if you take to exhaust tube and side knock out off. Don’t electrocute yourself.

In my case, the motor started straight up.

So the only thing left is the control panel.

Well, hit a new snag. Now the dial to select different drying cycles randomly jumps from one setting to the next, and not all options are accessible. The display was working fine previously, so somehow connecting it to the replacement control board influenced it.

Is there any way to reset the display controller to resync with the controller?

Thanks.