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Joined: 8/26/2011(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Sorry for the delay.
Try to do the following test:
1. Jump test points “T” to “H”.
2. Make sure the ice bin is on the door, the IDI slide is “on,” and both doors are closed.
3. Unplug the unit, or turn off the power for 10 seconds, and then reapply power (it's better if the compressor is not running at that time).
4. After 10 seconds, open and close the freezer door.
5. After 15 seconds, open the freezer door. The ice maker should be running.
6. Remove the jumper from test points “T” to “H”.
Post the results.
Gene. There is no response when jumping test points T & H. I cheked another ice maker I have and it is getting 120 volts at the connection to the ice maker. I am still only getting 60 volts on this connection at the black and white wire. Again, what is causing the reduced voltage even after I installed a new PCA board?
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Rank: Member
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I assume that you used a digital voltmeter.
They have a very high input impedance.
When you measure an open wire there is capacitive coupling to other wiring and you will get a reading between 40 to 80 in most cases.
One of the wires supplying the ice maker is open. Most likely the neutral. First check the wiring harness on the ice maker.
Don't know anything else about that refrigerator to tell you where to check next.
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My voltage was low. I replaced the parts and the voltage did not change but the ice maker started working in one hour.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Just to add my 2 cents... You may want to check the status of the LED on the right side of the freezer door frame. Open the freezer door and close the emitter door on the left side. Make sure there is nothing obstructing the optic beam from side to side and check the LED. If it's blinking then the optic PC boards (#26 & #38 on the diagram) have to be replaced. - The PC board kit Part number: AP3137510
This worked.Thanks Gene. The voltage didn't change but the Ice maker started working. This part fits most side by sides with the ice bin in the door.
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Groups: Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0  Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Not enough voltage to ice maker. Only 106 volts. How can you get it up to 120?
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Joined: 7/1/2023(UTC) Posts: 0 
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I also have the same problem. My ice-maker was working fine. I had to shut down my freezer (sliding bottom drawer) to get rid of frost (snow) in my freezer due to my kids leaving the door slightly open and the drain was clogged, so humidity was building up. Emptied all the freezer, left it to unfreeze for 5 hours, unclogged the drain and it was good to go. No more frost, my freezer works fine. But during the process I disconnected the connector of the ice maker only (not completely removing the ice maker). Now, I only have 16 volts on the connector pins, testing disconnected and testing with the door switch pushed. I unfreezed it again for 30 minutes. BAM, 120 volts. Jump tested the ice maker, it was working, I could feel the bottom heater warming the ice mold. got some ice. Put back the freezer to its normal temperature. This morning, no ice, and 16 volts ! Could it be because of a thin layer of ice forming on the connectors ?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/1/2023(UTC) Posts: 0
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I solved my problem. Turns out it was the freezer door light switch the problem. I guess it had accumluted frost inside along the years. I cracked open the door switch and saw that all the connector were covered with black dust. Probably the cause of having low voltage to the ice maker. Also my light was blinking sometimes and looked dimmed. Cleand all that with alcool put it back in place and TADAM. no more problem with my ice maker.
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