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Our microwave has developed a funny habit. Sometimes when cooking, it will just stop despite time being left on the clock. Opening and closing the door allows it to finish the timed cycle. Sometimes when we just shut the door after removing food, cleaning it or whatnot (no timer or cooking mode is set) the microwave seems to start. Opening and closing the door stops this process. It is a Kenmore Microwave Model 401.80093700 (or 40180093700). Any thoughts or suggestions would be great. Thank you. Edited by user Sunday, March 6, 2022 11:08:57 AM(UTC)
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Joined: 7/27/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,395 Location: near the middle of nowhere Was thanked: 24 time(s) in 24 post(s)
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I'd look at the door switches. One or more are probably starting to go bad. Sometimes you can tell by clicking the switch or testing it with an ohm meter.
I tried looking your model number up at sears, didn't come up. You might want to check it. Most MW ovens have three door switches.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: ThatGuy I'd look at the door switches. One or more are probably starting to go bad. Sometimes you can tell by clicking the switch or testing it with an ohm meter.
I tried looking your model number up at sears, didn't come up. You might want to check it. Most MW ovens have three door switches. Thanks for the reply. I corrected the model. Or clarified it. Sometimes it is listed as 401.80093700 vs. 40180093700. I do figure it is something connected to the door/latch as the issue happens when closing it and sometimes when operating. The operating part intrigues me because it will run for a while and then the cooking stops. I'm guessing above my paygrade is an explanation about heat and how that could impact the door. Test the switches as in the door latches? This model has 2. How would I test them from an electrical standpoint? I do have a multimeter.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 7/27/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,395 Location: near the middle of nowhere Was thanked: 24 time(s) in 24 post(s)
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This part has three switches. https://www.searspartsdi...-0022-401/id-de96-00414aI suspect one or more of the door switches is making poor contact internally and generating heat instead of conducting the electricity. Look for burnt or discolored wires on the switch terminals. The switches often loose their "snap" when you push their button or plunger. When testing they should show very low resistance, around 0 when the switch is closed. Infinite when not closed. The three terminals on a micro-switch are com, no, and nc. Common, normally open, and normally closed. Take a picture of the switches and there wiring. Pull one wire off a switch and test from com to no and from com to nc. I think once you get eyes on it you'll be able to see the problem.
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