Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/27/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Hello to All,
Question: I have a bad defrost coil on My refrigerator section of My refrigerator.I had to order the evaporator assembly Samsung part number AP4171999 It appears it is not sold separately. Can I remove the defrost coil from the new evaporator and install in the unit with a bad defrost coil. Would be much easier then changing the evaporator,[cutting into the system,recover,recharge] Thanks,Dave
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/7/2009(UTC)
Posts: 41
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/27/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Thanks Jay for the reply. My refrigerator section was 65' so I opened up find the evaporator was a block of ice. So I took a hair dryer to it defrosted it. I ohmed out the defrost heater it was way up in the meg ohm reading I wiggled the wire going into the heater element it appears to be at that connection point at the crimp can't do anything with it. So we will put the new heater in it a see what happens.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/7/2009(UTC)
Posts: 41
|
Let us know how you make out. Looks like it can be done, it is going to be fun working inside the fridge. I can't count the times that I have been in there with a hairdryer. There are so many people that have the same problem with this brand, no matter what model. I, like all the others, will never buy another Samsung product of any kind. The only tech that is only a little knowldgeable about the unit will not come out anymore. I have had to learn all about it myself on different forums. There is something inherently wrong with ours and we can't chance coming home after a vacation and find the piece of junk dead.
So soon, we will be putting the imported piece of junk out on the curb like so many ofthers
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/27/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
The part is due in on the first of June. Have to see how busy work is if I will get to it during the week or save for the weekend. Will let you know how I make out. Dave
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/27/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Received part as promised. I removed defrost coil from the evaporator which worked out nice. The Ohm reading of the new coil was 90 Ohms. The old one was open, no reading. Was not a bad job. Will open up in a few weeks to see if it defrosting O.k. It's easy to do. Thanks for the Help. Dave
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/7/2009(UTC)
Posts: 41
|
Good work Dave. We went out to look for another fridge but really didn't like any we saw as much as the one we have, so for now I have ordered another motherboard and hope the defrost function returns when I replace it. For now, I have some zip cord patched into the heater connector and have run the zip cord out the side of the door to a simple lamp timer plugged into the wall outlet set to power the heater every 12 hours for 20 minutes. I have had this working now for almost two weeks now and haven't had to do the hairdryer trick since. Not the most efficient setup since the compressor might be running at the same time the defrost timer begins but it seems to still work for now. My heater measured 50 ohms and have a clamp-on ammeter and it reads 1.2 amps when it is on. Would have thought it would have read more like 2 amps.
Don't know why they make you buy an entire evaporator just to get a heater. A lot of things don't make sense nowadays.
Correction: Don't know what I was looking at but fridge defrost heater resistance is really 120 ohms.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/13/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
Yes, you can replace just the defrost coil. Order the complete evaporator coil, with defrost coil attached. Carefully spread the clinched tabs that hold the defrost coil into the evaporator fin assembly. Also cut the rivet at the bottom right that holds the bottom heat-shield/drain trough to the fin assembly. After this lift the old assembly up and out of the back of the molded plastic notch, being careful not bending or kinking the the capillary or return tubing and slide the old defrost coil down and out of the unit. To attach the new coil do the reverse. Remember to carefully cut the plastic harness straps but, always replace them when done.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2010(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Do I measure the heater at room temperature (defrost)? Should I set the multimeter at 200K when checking the resistant and the reading should be 90? If that is the fault part, how do I remove the evaporator coil since it is nailed to the bottom part (drain)? Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 7
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
