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sdcoffeeroaster  
#11 Posted : Monday, December 1, 2014 9:40:44 AM(UTC)
sdcoffeeroaster

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My kitchenaid dishwasher, KUDS30ixbl1 is about3 1/2 yrs old now. It's had the complete touch panel and control boards replaced in the first week of operation. That lasted until about 2 months ago when two wires that were only partially twisted together during the installed opened from arcing and the unit quit. Last month the display panel started to act up again leaving two blue leds lit all the time. They ordered a new display assembly and the day before they arrived to install it the thermal fuse opened during an incomplete wash cycle. Now they don't want to install the display assy or order the fuse and want to do a "buy out". I'm assuming that's either pro-rated money or a voucher. I don't think they ever replaced the fuse or the wiring and I think it's been apart many times. I bought the extended warranty because this looked like a lemon from the first week and now they are going to stick me with this. Does it sound like the if they replace the control panel and switch I might be OK. They don't know a thing about trouble shooting and they're just part replacers unfortunately. I know I could probably fix this myself if they at least replaced the touch panel now. Any advice? Thanks
bolonny  
#12 Posted : Wednesday, April 8, 2015 5:18:07 PM(UTC)
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when replacing 98c(thermal cut off is at 98 degrees celsius) thermal fuse use electrical grease on all connections to eliminate resistance(HEAT) and you should be good to go.................if you can solder i recommend going to radio shack and getting a thermal fuse for 1.99 ,follow recommended soldering instructions as to not over heat the fuse when soldering,,,,when buying fuse look at the ..TF O98C..the o98c is the degrees it can also be something like 115c,,129c ect. it will also say 120v and all that info is on the plastic or ceramic clip that its housed in.....also if ya dont use heat element it will never blow cause thats the main purpose of the fuse,,,,,hair dryers have them(but they reset when cooled down),toasters,tons of stuff uses them ,heck even your computer uses them
R1100RA  
#13 Posted : Monday, August 24, 2020 2:28:18 PM(UTC)
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OK there is too much BS in this thread especially from the people who supposedly are "experts". Btw the downloadable PDF is pretty much useless it does not provide any meaningful information how to troubleshoo the cause of the blown TCO which is the main issue here!

So let's start with some facts:

1. A TCO senses temperature and will "open" (and stop electricity through the circuit) when the ambient temperature will reach (and exceed) the temperature it's rated for. E.g. a 85C TCO will click "open" when the air temperature around it is at 85 or above Celcius which is about 185F.

2. Contrary to what some "experts" are saying a TCO is a ...dumb device. All it can so is sense temperature and it does so in a rather crude (bi-metal) way, but it works reliably and it is cheap to make so they put them in our appliances to protect the electronic PCB board that essentially runs the appliance and also to prevent a fire.

3. Unless the TCO has been inserted into very loose spade connectors (in which case obvious arcing will be the telltale) it is usually very reliable and will not be tripped by the wiring or anything else, again it only senses temperature.

4. A TCO btw does have an amperage rating but that is to protect the TCO and ensure its proper operation. E.g. if your TCO is rated for say 10 Amps if somehow the circuit carries more than that eventually the TCO will fail to function properly when needed. More current though means that something ELSE is malfunctioning within your applicance, NOT the TCO.

5. Finally, NEVER run the appliance with a jumper between the TCO cables. The appliance will run but it is not protected by whatever caused the overheating issue in the first place.

Having said that, ignore those who say the "upgraded" wiring will solve the problem. It will NOT! The problem is excessive ambient temperature around the TCO which depending on the location of the TCO will eventually degrade and eventually destroy the component the TCO was there to protect in the first place.

Also, if you decide to keep buying TCOs at least buy a resettable one so that you can at least avoid the hassle and the expense but you MUST find the reason why the temperature is getting higher than before in the area the TCO is located.

If you have any questions please email me directly at R1100RA(at)gMail(dot)com, as I am not monitoring this thread.

Cheers!
R1100RA  
#14 Posted : Monday, August 24, 2020 2:34:03 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: bustoutfunk Go to Quoted Post
Hi megaman. What was the result of your problem. I am debating whether to replace the wiring that comes with the kit or just put in a new fuse...I am getting mixed response...

Also, the document posted states the following:

The temperature control circuit should be analyzed for proper operation and corrected.

How would one go about doing this?

Thanks.


What is the complete model of your dishwasher?

Did it happen first time?

Gene.



Hey Gene, why does it matter if it happened for the first or the millionth time? If the TCO tripped that means something is causing the ambient temperature around the TCO to rise above an unsafe level. But I guess you as an ..."expert" you knew that, right?

Edited by user Monday, August 24, 2020 2:42:58 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

R1100RA  
#15 Posted : Monday, August 24, 2020 2:38:14 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
It is very important to replace this fuse together with the wires included in the kit.

Hopefully the new fuse will last.

Gene.


The TCO wiring is irrelevant Gene! What you should be telling this guy is to find WHY the ambient temperature around the TCO is getting higher than what the manufacturer's specifications are. Plus, "hopefully" is not what an expert technician should use when suggesting a repair solution. You either know what causes that or NOT. But again you are only an "expert", right?
alkisax  
#16 Posted : Tuesday, September 15, 2020 3:30:19 PM(UTC)
alkisax

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Kitchen aid dishwasher thermal fuse keeps blowing
I have read numerous threads about the thermal fuse blowing and tried all the suggestions to no avail, what was key to the thermal, fuse blowing is every time There was water in the bottom, I heard several people had the same problem but never got a answer that solved my particular problem. It ended up being the switch for the water level in the bottom ( made so much sense ) the float switch is covered by a plastic cover so if your not looking for it probably won’t see it. When I removed it I saw slightly burnt looking soot on the spade connector! Been through six cycles now, still working, before it blew about every second or third time.

Edited by user Tuesday, September 15, 2020 3:32:27 PM(UTC)  | Reason: added the brand

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